Legacy777

The engine is "close", but it's not identical. The STi block is semi-closed. I don't know if the Forester block is. However, a lot of the stuff that will fit the WRX or STi should work on your car. I've got a buddy down here in Houston that has a forester XT, and he's got an STi exhaust on it, and some other goodies. It's pretty quick.

You do have the newer coil pack, and I'm pretty sure the ignitor is integrated into it.

It'd be less work/hassle in my mind to pull the rear extension housing off and replace the clutch packs and solenoid if it's bad. But that's my opinion.

What measurements do you want? I've got a turbine portion sitting on my workbench.

Hmm....well it looks like another case where the factory manual is wrong.....

going to close this thread.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51554

I've created this thread so you can post links to all the commonly brought up topics for the new gen Subarus, while not having millions of stickies cluttering the top of the forum. For the time being I will leave the thread unlocked and allow users to post threads they feel are commonly brought up issues. When posting, please ONLY post the link to the thread, and keep discusion regarding an item in that thread. Also, please use the following format when posting Note: Replace paranthesis with brackets. (url=http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/somethread)Description of thread(/url) If the thread becomes cluttered with extraneous threads or chatter I will close the thread, and you'll have to pm one of the mods to add a thread. Enjoy! Josh

I had mine go on me when I got the car back in 95. I ended up just buying a new tumbler, took it to a locksmith and had him tweak things.

Gary, I'm not concerned with the rear diff. The reasons you mention in your thread explaining what you did are the reasons I'm referring to. Removing the rear half of the driveline really probably isn't the best thing to be doing. It may have worked fine for you, but it's something I can't recommend. Maybe I'm being too overly cautious, but that's just my take on it. BTW, the 90 n/a legacies & 91 turbo legacy had one piece CV-joint style driveline, and can not be separated.

Yeah I was going after the rotors. You were told incorrectly according to the info I have. The ABS cars have 10.91" rotors vs the non-ABS cars which have 10.24" rotors. That info is from the factory manual. It's possible that information is wrong.... When you switched the rotors, were they the same size? How were the pads different? What model/trim is the 97?

Even if you went for a low mileage 96, you'd still have to swap out the rear diff.

Try this https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/28 Other item that could cause the intermittant issues is the MAF sensor. Mine would stall stumble and lose power at times. It didn't leave a code. However the ignitor is probably going to be cheaper to replace then the MAF, so unless you can get a cheap MAF, you may want to start with the ignitor.

Can you provide some more info about the car/year/model, and what exactly you're trying to do? Did the needle for the tachometer fall off? If gluing it doesn't work, you'll probably have to get a new one.

Can you describe the noise? Is it more a low frequency noise....does the pitch change with speed?

Personally, I'd take it somewhere else. Their diagnosis of having misfires...while it may be true or not....I don't know....is not caused by a TPS (Throttle positioning sensor). Or were they saying it needed a TPS in addition to the misfires? The front pullies on subarus can be an issue due to mechanics not torquing that front main crank pulley bolt correctly. The pulley has a rubber piece between the inner and outer pieces to absorb vibration. It's possible that might be damaged. If the pulley was loose, I would have hoped they would have just tightened it up....otherwise I'd want some more details as to what exactly is the issue. I'd also highly recommend you post in the meet & greet forum and see if there's anyone else that lives in your area, that can recommend a good subaru mechanic.

Sounds like you have a short somewhere in the electrical system. What all goes out when that fuse blows? Unfortunately, shorts aren't super easy to find at times. It may be a wire that has rubbed through, or possibly something as simple as a bulb that's shorted out. So you may want to start at the easy stuff and work up.

It really depends. You'll find tons of tranny fluid threads on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums on what people like and what works well. I've tried dino oil, and 2-3 different synthetics and I'm running a cocktail mix right now. If you search for "Uncle scotty cocktail" on NASIOC, you'll find more info about it, but essentially it's a mix of GM syncromesh fluid (I used penzoil), redline lightweight shockproof, and castrol 80w90 gear oil. I had grinding issues to some extent with all other fluids. I don't have them with the cocktail. The only consistent thing I've found on subaru transmissions is that they are not consistent. Certain fluids will work good for some people, while they don't work for others.

Yeah, there should be a spot on the front diff on the passenger side of the car, just behind the motor where the speedo cable base should go. It'll look like this http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg The cable just goes down into that.

The other issue is the axles, they are different spline count, which requires different hubs, unless you get custom CV axles....so as you can see....it does get more complicated.

Do you run the same snow tires as her? If not, it's gotta be the tire or how she drives. Personally, it sounds like the tire is a POS. Are the tires that have failed being replaced under warranty? How much do they cost per tire? Where are they made?

You shouldn't drive with the FWD fuse in for a long time. Here's the reason. The duty c solenoid is designed to get a pulsed on/off signal voltage. When you put in the fuse, you send 12v constant to the solenoid so it opens all the way. That constant signal is going to wear the solenoid out a lot sooner. How much sooner....I don't know. Regarding the rear diff comment. I wouldn't personally recommend that either. You'll run into issues.

It'd bolt up, but you'd have lots of other issues too. The STi tranny is a 6 speed. Yours is a 5spd. If you're looking to do the conversion, read some of the various threads on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

I'm personally against massive amounts of sticky's. However I don't mind creating one thread, sticky that, and post various threads to that one sticky.

Just to confirm my curiousity. Your 97 doesn't have ABS correct? As for other parts, maybe a few suspension things, but I don't think I'd swap 93 stuff on your 97. Body parts are different, as well as interior...so I really don't know how much you're actually going to able to use.