Legacy777

I've got the perfect power 6 from rallitek. However I've been having issues with hesitation/stumbling. Some other guys are having issues as well. So we'll see if I keep it or try something else.

I'm not sure of the exact location of the wiring, but yeah I'm pretty sure it goes back to the rear extension housing. Either that or the wire will have a connection inside the transmission.

Well I guess you could try changing the fluid, but I don't think that's going to help. Only other suggestion I can give is to try disconnecting the wire that goes to the duty c solenoid. That way the rear drive portion would get full line pressure and essentually be 50/50 split.

It does alter the AWD transfer...and yeah I would agree 55/45 is probably a more realistic number.....

Yeah, that's about average....if not pretty decent. I just filled mine up, and I had about 250 miles on the tank

Did you have the gear selector physically in the 1 position...all the way back???? Do not mess with the manual button, it doesn't do what you think. Read this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=410273#post410273

You can get at the bolts with the intake on. A ratcheting wrench works wonders for those bolts.

Is the green connector a T shaped connector....same/similar as the one in this pic? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg If so, those are the diagnostic connectors, leave them disconnected. As for your problem with the gauge. It's possible the float is stuck or something is screwed up with the electrical connections. I'd start with the electrical. There's a connector under the passenger side rear seat. That's the fuel pump connector. You should be able to manipulate the low fuel light as well as gauge by grounding a pin with the key in the "ON" position. Same goes for the gauge. While I'm not sure if this diagram is the same for your car, it should at least give you an idea of what's going on. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/fuel_sender_scan.jpg

Yeah, well I would start with the bushings before doing lots of different fluids. I've got kartboy bushings for the front and rear mounts, and custom bushings in the shifter joint linkage. It definitely feels better.

Yeah, definitely do some more looking around. Post in the meet & greet forum to see if anyone is in your area that might be able to recommend a good shop, or help you out. You may want to also check out these other boards to look for subaru people in your area. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums www.bbs.legacycentral.org

I really hate the chiltons & haynes manuals. They are absolutely horrible. There's no need to drop the oil pan. Basically, changing the water pump is like changing the timing belt, and involves the exact same steps except for that you need to drain the coolant first and loosen the bolts holding the water pump on. Here's scans for the timing belt job for the 90-94 legacies. Should be similar/same for the 95. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt4.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt5.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt6.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt7.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt8.jpg

Sorry for getting snippy. I've posted info about the manual button lots of times, and no matter how many times I post it, I continue to see misinformation about it.

This is incorrect. It shifts between 2nd and 3rd. If you come to a stop, the transmission will take off in 2nd gear. Try it. Go to an open stretch of road, come to a stop, floor it, and keep flooring it. It will shift into 3rd gear around 70-80 mph, depending on your final drive ratio.

You may run into issues with the pedal travel. I know I didn't really care for how things felt when I swapped things over. If you have ABS, you should be fine because the MC is larger. If you don't have ABS, you may want to look at a 4-port 1-1/16" MC if you don't like how things feel. I'd only do that if you don't like how things feel. I wouldn't mess with the prop valve until you get everything in, and see how you like it. It may be perfectly fine. The 13.25 percentage increase with the wagon prop valve is only seen when above the split point of the wagon prop valve. The percentage increase tapers down as pressure increases. If you look on the split point data sheet, and the far right column, there is a percentage number. That's the percentage increase from the sedan valve.

I've got the 95 impreza in there. I don't have other ones because I don't have factory manuals. However the brake rotor & caliper piston size is more then likely the same as one of the Legacy setups.

It will not take 8 qts if you just drain it. It'll only take about 4-5 qts if you just drain and refill. Total capacity is around 8 qts, but you won't get all that out.

Welcome. I made it

I may have posted this before, but I've had some time to go through the spreadsheet and clean things up, and make quite a bit of improvements. The biggest being a 'Brake Torque Calculator'. Let's say you want to swap some WRX brakes onto your 90 Legacy. Choose your car from the drop down menu, and the WRX as what you want to go to, and the calculator will spit out the percent change in brake torque and whether the shift is frontward or rearward. If you don't see your vehicle in there and have information on your car, please let me know and I will add it. Likewise, if you see anything that looks incorrect or suspect, please let me know. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/brakemath.xls

The Manual Button found on the 1990-1994 Legacies What does the manual button do?

I'd consider the MAF sensor to be a culprit as well http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=410257#post410257

The Haynes manual is stupid. You don't need to remove the intake manifold. Just disconnect everything from the engine and remove it as a whole unit.

Yeah, definitely check the battery and alternator. Even with a clogged cat (unless it's REALLY bad), the engine should run at idle.

Just want to add this bit of info. Not having the speedometer working will cause ALL sorts of weird problems. The car will not shift right, the AWD will not work properly, the engine coolant fans will be on all the time, as well as other odities. You MUST fix the speedometer before trying to diagnose any of the other issues. Maybe I wasn't too clear. Since you have an AWD vehicle, jack up the car so all four wheels are off the ground. Remove the speedometer cable from the base piece I show in the pic posted. Turn on the car, put it in drive, and the wheels should turn. While this is happening, look down at the speedometer base piece screwed into the front differential. Do you see anything spinning inside that thing? If not, remove the base piece, rubber and metal washer if they're still stuck in the hole. With that removed, now look down in that hole and see if you see the gear spinning. If you do, replace the base piece with a new one, reconnect the speedo, reset the ECU, and be on your merry way. if the gear inside the transmission does not move, things become more difficult. To replace that gear the front differential has to be removed from the transmission, which means the whole transmission needs to be removed. Thanks for the compliments on the swap. I actually just swapped in a turbo motor this past summer. I haven't had a chance to put it on the site yet. Here's all the pics if you care to look http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/

I don't think Subaru AWD systems are voodoo magic at all. They are pretty straight forward. Here's what I'd like you to do. Take the cars out in the snow or gravel, or where ever there is a slippery surface. Put the gear selector in the "1" position. Floor it, and have someone stand outside and watch the rear of the car. See if the rear wheels move. The reason I say to put the gear selector in the "1" position is because the TCU will up the torque split to near 50/50. Also, the 91 turbos came with a rear viscous LSD. So...both rear wheels "should" spin.

Just a note, don't ever cost with an automatic and the engine not running. The automatic trans get's its lubrication from the pump in the transmission. When the engine isn't running, it doesn't get lubricated. As for your circumstance....personally, I wouldn't bother with putting the car in neutral.