Legacy777

Hmm So is the rubber freezing and sticking to the door, and then the clips pulling out of the rubber? Try spraying a silicone lubricant on a rag and wiping the rubber down.

Is your check engine light on? You may want to try pulling the codes to see if anything is stored in the computer. I have the procedure for pulling the codes on the legacy, but they should be the same for your 93 www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Also, can you describe the problem better. Does it happen all the time, does it only happen when the engine is warm, etc.

You should be fine Kevin.

Regarding the diff swap question. No you don't need to worry about swapping the computer if you change final drive ratios. Just remember that the front and rear final drive ratio need to match.

Some are. The later coils from about 97 or maybe newer had the ignitor integrated into the coil pack. Those are not interchangable with the coil packs that did not have the ignitor integrated. The coil packs without the ignitor had female spark plug connections. The coil packs with the igntior integrated had male spark plug connections.

Let's forget about the codes......how does the engine run? Do you notice misfires, or does everything seem to run fine?

As I mentioned above, reset the ECU, and see what codes back before replacing anything. Some of the codes may not be actual problems.

Probably not... You are talking about the weatherstripping right? Where is it pulling out? Is the rubber pulling out of the plastic clips, or are the plastic clips coming out the door?

If the wire is intact, I would wrap each wire with electrical tape very well, and then wrap the wires together in electrical tape. If the wires aren't in good shape, you should splice in new wire. You may even want to put wiring loom around the wires I'd also wrap the wires going to the pump....the ones in the pic you sent me. Josh

I'm not sure if the newer ones are like the older legacies. But the older legacies had a pig tail that came off the radio. The connector was under the carpet right around the area where the driver's feet were and the transmission tunnel. I know there's people on here with the newer models, so hopefully they'll chime in.

I think you may be a little confused. The PP can read boost pressure, I'm doing that. It also has an optional output to control an extra injector. You can use this output to control the stock boost controller solenoid. However you have to program in all the PWM settings yourself. I'm sure with some time and tweaking, you could get it right, but for me right now, I'm not messing with it. Plus it'll probably give you a CEL.

Pull the ECU codes www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

Either or....potAtoe....potatoe..

Yes there is differences. For example, the engine electrical harness for the 90-91 n/a legacies use 3 square connectors. The 92-94 n/a legacies use 2 square connectors, while the 91-94 turbo legacies use two square connectors and one round connector.

Does the 95 2.2 motor you bought have dual exhaust port heads, or single exhaust port heads. If they are dual exhaust port heads, your 2.5 exhaust will work.

There is an allen key in the center console. Remove it, remove the little plastic tab at the bottom of the B pillar, and manually crank the seat belt back.

What are the system pressures? Have you checked to see if you have R12 or R134a? I forget when they switched to 134a.

Rennick motorsports carries the scorpion kit http://www.renickmotorsports.com/oscommerce/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=664&products_id=1219 They may have some pics.

May want to try the meet & greet forum as well.

WHO CARES, as long as it says Dextron II or III on the bottle some where you're good!! It could meet the potatoe french fry cooking oil spec for all I care.

How often are you getting this problem? Does it happen on level surfaces too? You may want to replace the coolant temp sensor.

where are the ridges in relationship to the head gasket? How much does the ridges raise up, and valley sink?

Fuel cut is based on boost pressure. The perfect power does not alter the boost signal to the ECU. You can get an external fuel cut defender to trick the ECU. I'm still reluctant to say the 550 injectors 100% solved his issues.

You can't turn it off.....you can use a manual boost controller or aftermarket electronic boost controller to control boost separately from the stock computer. I'd suggest checking out www.bbs.legacycentral.org

There is a button underneath the steering column where the lock cylinder is that will allow you to remove the key when it's being depressed. (the owner's manual shows you where it is) The issue you are having is part of the key-interlock system, which is tied into the transmission being in park before you can remove the key. It's possible the switch at the shifter lever is bad, or possibly the controller box under the dash. Check out these scans regarding the system http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html#shiftlock