Legacy777

Yeah.....once you drive a good Subaru....you start comparing other cars to it. I drive lots of rental cars due to traveling for work....and I'd rather drive my old legacy then those new cars.

Something like this, but more work since it's OBD2 www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

Please only post once on related questions/issues. Going to close these threads since you have another thread with similar questions. Please continue any conversation there. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54237

Please only post once on related questions/issues. Going to close these threads since you have another thread with similar questions. Please continue any conversation there. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54237

There is no center diff on the autos. They use a multi-plate clutch system to transfer power to the rear. Which CV axle broke? Front or rear? Here's more info on the auto trans. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system3.jpg

Just to add. I used gary's info back in 98 or so to fix my locks. I just used a paper clip to hook the spring. Getting the plastic piece off around the door handle can be tricky. There are two clips at the pivot point of the lock button. Detach those, and then push the entire plastic piece towards the front of the door. That will unhook the last clip in the front.

Who knows...they may have just got things mixed up in the system. As long as they're making good on it, I wouldn't worry about it.

I would say what you're experiencing is for the most part normal.

You can buy the factory manuals on paper back. http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/?section=385 or d/l them http://techinfo.subaru.com I'd recommend the paper backs. You may also want to search ebay. They sometimes pop up on there.

They are a subaru item. So I would check with your local subaru dealer, or check on ebay as well. You may also want to post in the WTB forum in the marketplace.

I will pose this question to you. When you go to a concert, do you face the music or do you turn and face the other way? You face the music. So why would you want to have the music behind you in your car? Rear speakers for all intents and purposes on pro type systems are nothing but rear fill. They are capped so the frequency range they reproduce is not too high or too low (band pass). That's how I've got mine setup. If you just want to stay with the stock deck, no amps, and other stuff, I would recommend you get new speakers to replace all four speakers. Also, if you want more bass, get a dedicated subwoofer.

You are absolutely correct in your understanding of the codes and the diagnostic connectors. The canister purge solenoid is part of the evaporative emissions system. The ECU tells it to open at certain times so that intake manifold vacuum draws the gasoline vapors out of the charcoal canister in the front of the engine (black round thing). The purge solenoid is located under the passenger side intake manifold and isn't too bad to get to. These pics should help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/ Second row down you'll see a pic of the the solenoid valve.

Can you describe the noise you were hearing a little more thoroughly

I've moved your post out of the FAQ sticky, because that's not where it belongs. Please provide some additional information about your car, model, year, etc

Any time a change is made, even insignificant changes, the part # changed. There's a good probability that the TCU you have will work fine.

For future info, You can find out how to pull the codes and what codes are what by reading my post at the bottom of the FAQ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51554

How to read the ECU codes for OBD1 Legacies & Imprezas How to read the TCU codes for OBD1 Legacies & Imprezas

Ask in the Legacy forum on NASIOC

Personally, I don't think your TPS was ever the problem in the first place. Too many mechanics are just parts changers any more, and don't actually troubleshoot. Do like your doing...check all the wiring. The problem may be temperature dependent as well....if so, it's going to be tough trying to track down which wire is the actual culprit.

Yeah...it's probably a leaf. Follow setright's advice. You can remove the glovebox to give you some more room.

Take the door panel off and make sure the linkage isn't binding, and is working properly. If it is, your problem is with the lock assembly.

I've got some friends who have an 04 or 05, and they like them. You may want to ask on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums There's going to be more people that are going to have them.

Not sure about the IAC valve error. It's possible it needs to be replaced. As for the 5-pin vs. 4-pin. It shouldn't matter. The Black JECS MAF sensors on the 90-91's I believe had the 5-pins, and then in 92 they went to 4-pin. The reasoning is due to because the first gen legacy had two different MAF sensors. The ECU detects when the incorrect MAF sensor is used by having an extra pin on the MAF that grounds. I believe on the JECS MAF sensor with 5 pins, that pin is not really hooked up to anything. They probably went to the 4-pin setup to save money...or whatever. I've used 4 & 5 pin JECS MAF sensors without any problem.

Not sure, if not, I'll add it.

if it's like the previous gen legacies, you have to take out the cover/metal piece that the ashtray slides into. On mine, there's one screw in the back and two screws that face upwards.