Legacy777

Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? For AT's the inhibitor switch is on the side of the transmission. For MT's, again it's on the side of the transmission. If the switch is bad and the ECU doesn't know whether the car is in neutral or not, it can have some effect on idle. It'll be more noticable on AT's.

There may be a clear vinyl section on the lower portion of the paneling to reduce rock chips, but that's just a guess.

Have her give you the VIN #

The haynes & chiltons manuals are ok.....I don't know if one is better then the other. You can buy subaru manuals from online dealers, and sometimes ebay. You can also pay for a subscription and d/l some from subaru http://techinfo.subaru.com

They have smaller exhaust valves, slightly less valve overlap on the cam, connections on the passenger side for turbo coolant oil lines. Don't use them on a n/a motor, they won't help.

I'm unaware of any differences, but I'd suggest you ask in the transmission forum on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

Yeah....my brain hurts too.... BTW, I don't like steering wheels with a bottom spoke. I like to rest my hand at the bottom of the wheel when cruising down the highway. I swear most of the new cars have that bottom spoke....

Do you get a key in ignition beep/buzzer when the engine is off, and door is open? If not, there's a chance someone disconnected the connector coming from the ignition switch assembly to disable to beeper. The connector is a 2-pin, T-shaped connector coming from the ignition switch. Look for it, and make sure it is plugged in.

May want to check the offroad forum. Also, you may want to email these guys http://www.renickmotorsports.com/oscommerce/catalog/index.php?cPath=664 They can get stuff from Australia and may be able to get you a bull bar.

Keep the n/a heads. the exhaust ports on the turbo heads are smaller then the n/a heads.

What codes did you get from the seatbelt computer? Did you look at this? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag3.jpg

There's a bleed screw on the passenger side of the radiator. This MUST be removed in order to get all the air out. Also, if you are using anything but an OEM thermostat, replace it with an OEM subaru thermostat.

I don't know if the 95 impreza is like the first gen legacies. It has two sensors, one for the gauge, and one for the ECU. Even if there's only one sensor, and it reads correctly, it still could be the sensor. They can be cranky, be bad, and still read the correct voltage. You can get them for 20 bucks at www.subarugenuineparts.com So I'd recommend just replacing it....it does wear, so either way, it's a good idea. What color are the connectors? You can also pull the EGI/TCU fuse for 30 minutes or so and accomplish the same thing.

Check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org If the fan doesn't work on position 4, then it's probably not the resistor pack....since full power should be going to the fan.

You can find some pics here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors

I'd suggest searching, there's been a lot of threads about it. Do the threads you read specify why they changed the cables?

Is the roof pushed in at all? Anyone else have any ideas?

You'll need to remove the nut that holds the shaft to the mounting plate. You could probably do it on the car.

They could check the rear separator plate, but it's probably ok.

Could be the seal. I'd keep an eye on it, and see if it happens again.

The cruise computer is on the passenger side of the car, to the right of the glove box. It's a pain to get to. here's pics of what it looks like http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/18/default.htm This gives a better view http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location05.jpg These electrical info scans may help as well. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html#cruise

I would highly recommend not doing this. If you don't know what you're modifying....don't modify it. It sounds like their telling you to remove one of the hose connections going to the solenoids/valves. What does this mod claim to do?

If you have not found the info you need, email me.

I'd reset the ECU, and see what codes come back. However your warm up symptoms would point me towards replacing the coolant temp sensor.

I'd recommend you search on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums Other place you will probably find info is www.scoobymods.com