Legacy777

Well....according to that information, it looks like things changed half way through. Look at your vin #, and see if it matches the VIN 6 thing.

Yeah, I'd remove the solenoid if you can't test the leads with it bolted to the manifold.

May want to ask on www.subaru-svx.net

Did you remove the bleed screw on the passenger side of the radiator? Do you get heat alright? Does the waterpump sound ok? Is the thermostat and subaru thermostat or is it a generic one?

When were you checking the voltage, was the engine running, and were you checking the voltage on the wiring harness side, or sensor side? The solenoid is only energized, ie seeing 12 v under normal cruise.

Go Fast Bits have a smaller diameter alternator pulley. I am running one. Ended up buying just that pulley since I had the others. It wasn't overly expensive.....but probably more then if you made it in the states. You wouldn't be able to mess with the water pump. it's run by the timing belt, and the pulley is integrated with the pump itself.

You can try getting the coolant sniffed for hydro carbons.....that may tell you if it's a HG issue. They're not always full proof. I'd recommend flushing the system & the overflow, refill, and just keep an eye on it. If you get the entire steering column, you should be able to just swap the stuff over. You'll need to take the steering wheel off to get the surrounding trim off the column to get at the ignition key. if you can find an ignition with the connector still in-tact then you could replace the wiring all the way down to the plug. If you want to do that, try and find something from a similar year.

Not really.....only suggestion would be to stick your head under the dash on the driver's side and see if you can see any of the levers binding.

NGK or ND are fine. I'd recommend the copper plugs over the platinum plugs....they just seem to run better. NGK or Magnecor wires are fine. I do use anti-seize....some don't I'd recommend you replace the water pump & thermostat while their in their replacing the belt. You'll need a gasket as well. ONLY use a subaru thermostat (I'd recommend you use subaru parts. They tend to last longer and be of better quality then some of the auto parts store. Check out www.subarugenuineparts.com for cheaper prices) I'd also recommend you have the oil pump removed, have them check the tightness of the screws on the backing plate, re-tighten them if needed, and put a dab of locktight on them. there's an o-ring in there that goes between the block & oil pump, you should replace that too. The oil pump is sealed with silicone, permatex ultra gray works. It'd also be a good idea to replace the front cam & crank seals, and the o-ring on the passenger side cam cover. If it looks like your valve covers are leaking, replace the grommets. They tend to get hard, and leak there. The gasket itself usually is ok. Those are the biggys....if you do all that stuff, you'll be saving yourself headache and money in the long run.

On the newer cars, the charcoil canister is in the rear of the vehicle. The solenoid should be in the same spot as previous models.

The debate between whether using the stock pulley w/ damper or aftermarket aside......you'll spend way more money & time doing it yourself then just buying one, or for that matter a complete set. I'm going to re-open this thread so Greg can try and get the answer's he's looking for regarding the pulley dimensions, etc. Please do NOT post arguing about the damper or other issues. If you can help Greg out, please do so, otherwise don't post. Thanks Josh

There's a canister purge solenoid under the passenger side intake manifold. It's the thing with the blue electrical connector http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2471.JPG BTW, post what year & model vehicle you're referring to.

Is it a continual clicking, or just one click?

Try resetting the TCU. Pull the EGI/TCU fuse for 30 minutes or so. If you still have the problem, you've got an issue with the wiring or the sensor itself. You can use this scan to figure out which pins are the VSS 1. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_at_control2.jpg Take a resistance reading across the two pins, No. 16 & No. 9 of the B16/E19 connector. The resistance should be 450 - 650 ohms.

I'd recommend picking up a set of aftermarket ones. I believe the stock ones are plastic. As for places to look, you can try www.boxer4racing.com www.subarugenuineparts.com http://www.renickmotorsports.com/oscommerce/catalog/ There's more around as well.

it wants a username & password. So it's probably not something that was meant to be shared.

relays for the lights should be under the hood in the fuse box. You may want to check the connection at the bulb as well. When you experience the problem, get out and wiggle the connections on the bulbs. See if that does anything. If not, try wiggling, pulling out and re-inserting the relays. In doing so, hopefully you can isolate where the issue is.

The bolt pattern is 5x100. As for other vehicles besides subarus.....you might want to try calling discount tire, or some other tire/wheel place.

Yes, once you have the newer linkage setup, you should be able to use any short shifter meant for the wrx.

No prob. Like I said, I'd check out NASIOC, you'll find more info over there.

Most of the drivetrain components are the same on the 90-94 legacies. However there was a body style update in 92. So mos body parts are not swappable between the 90-91 & 92-94 legacies.

You're probably finding something for the 93 impreza. The linkage/shifter in the 90-94 legacies are the same. To use any of the modern short throw shifters, you will need a "modern" linkage/shifter assembly, and you will need to replace the u-joint with a newer style. I talk about the joint in my AWD & 5mt swap write-up http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/techinfo.html#drivetrain There's also pics of the short throw shifter in the pics section. I'd recommend finding a used WRX shifter, replace the bushings with kartboy or other poly bushings, and use the wrx shifter, or replace it with a short throw. I'm currently just using a WRX shifter, poly bushings, and have replaced the bushings in the u-joint with custom nylon ones. Here's some pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/joint/ http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/joint2/ http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/jointcustom/

Looks good Michael!

Can you try to explain that again. I didn't really follow what you're trying to say.

So even with the hill holder removed, the clutch fork won't pop back to where it's supposed to? It's possible one of the clips came off the throw out bearing, and you're not getting the travel required. You can try peaking down the bell housing hole.