Legacy777

These may help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/auto_seatbelt_wiring_diag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/auto_seatbelt_wiring_diag2.jpg

Torque bind is more of an issue with automatics. I've heard of far less instances of torque bind on manual transmissions. This is assuming you're referring to manual transmissions with the 5-speed description.

Yup, you're in the right section. The board has several different forums, each forum has threads, and threads have posts replied to them. As for keeping tabs on your post, there's two main ways. When you submit a thread, there's an option below that says "Thread Subscription" You can set this up to email you whenever someone replies. The other way is use the search engine and simply type in your username, and find all any posts by you. Hope that helps.

Hmm.....have you done any routine maintenance on it recently, plugs, wire, filters, etc?

Like I said, you've got a short some where. If the dimmer switch keeps things from blowing, then the switch may be shorting out, or one of the interior illumination wires or bulbs could be shorting out. Either way, you need to have it fixed, and fixed properly. Electrical shorts are not something to take lightly as they could burn your car to the ground.

No, only after the car would sit overnight or for extended period of time...AND....if you just put the car in gear and kept your foot on the brake, and didn't touch the gas pedal.....it wouldn't do it. I say that because I brought it to the dealer and they just started it up and did what I said, and it never reproduced the problem. Once you touched the gas pedal is when it would stumble, and then it'd be fine. I really don't know what the issue was. So on yours, do you get the problem when the car is "warm" as well? My car was originally FWD AT & normally aspirated. It's not AWD, MT, & has a turbo legacy engine. So way too much stuff has changed....however I have supspicions it might have been auto transmission related.

welcome

yeah, mines probably 5mph off or so at least due to tire size differences. There's a shop in the seattle area that can make adapters to correct speedometers, even mechanical. So if my speed is off a certain amount after I change my tire size, I should be able to have it corrected.

With the car running, pull each spark plug wire and see if the engine dies or idle changes. These engines use a wasted spark ignition system, so if one side of the coil is dead that means two cylinders are going to be dead.

Do you let the car warm up or just drive off? I had similar issues. If I let the engine warm up, it wouldn't do it. You may want to try changing brands of gas. I never found out what was causing it....it eventually went away or went away when I did all my swaps.

Just go to a junkyard and buy a tank for 5 bucks or something. It should have the motor with it.

First gen's have no sort of speed limiter other then drag I topped mine out, when it was fwd & at at around 130...or that's what the speedo said.

Sounds like you have a short somewhere. It could be the bulbs, wiring, or possibly the switch. Does the fuse blow when the switch is off, or just when you turn the switch to turn the parking lights on?

I'd recommend searching on here for head gasket issues, you will find numerous threads with similar issues. That may help you in deciding what you want to do.

the starting issues could be explained by a bad coolant temp sensor. You may want to replace it. It's only like 20 bucks.

See what the dealer says. I'm not overly familar with that code, but it sounds like either the air pump for the emissions stuff, or the idle air control valve. Find out which one or what it is, and go from there.

you are correct actually the whole front end changed, hood, fenders, lights, etc

As for how many manuals there are....couldn't tell you. But a lot of the mods are interchangable between the impreza & legacy.

Glad you got it squared away.

I don't think you can replace just the bearing. I've actually got a 91 driveshaft sitting in my garage if you still need one.

bump

What you describe sounds normal because of the high idle. Chances are if you let the car warm up, so the idle returns to where it should be, you won't notice it. As for the lugging thing. How many miles do you have on the car? Have you checked the trans fluid?

for future reference http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/subaru_sealants.gif

So you actually get flames out of the tail pipe? Have you modified the exhaust/removed the catalytic converter? I'd say you're probably running REALLY rich for flames to come out. As for why....I couldn't tell you without some more info. You may also want to post on www.bbs.legacycentral.org

They will alter the beam pattern to where they will blind on-coming vehicles. The filament placement (hot spot on HID, since they don't have a filament) is not the same between HID's & halogen bulbs. This completely changes the optics of the headlight.