Legacy777

To remove the trans, you need need to disconnect the torque converter from the flex plate on the transmission. To do this, you need to access the bolts through the plug hole on the engine bell housing. It can be a pain, but it's not too bad if you take your time. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2486.JPG here's some more pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors Other then that, you just remove the upper bolts and lower nuts holding the trans to the engine, and lower the rear transmission crossmember. It can be a real pain to get the trans out, and slide back far enough off the engine studs. Other option you have is to pull the engine & trans out as one unit, which probably is going to be easier. I've got scans from the factory manual on my server. They may not be exactly the same, but should help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/

It's probably the idle air control valve. You can try spraying some brake cleaner in the IAC valve tube

I'd recommend replacing the knock sensor. The older sensors tend to crack and have issues.

manual or automatic?

You just want to make sure you don't adjust the clevis pin too far, so that the master cylinder doesn't return to it's full stop/resting position. If it doesn't, it keeps pressure on the slave cylinder which could wear things out, and/or possibly leave the clutch a smidge engaged. Take a look under the dash, and it should be a little more clear. Even if you don't have a full stroke on the pedal, you should still be engaging the piston in the master cylinder, and could bleed the system.

The chances are, the heat control incident was a coincidence. I am pretty sure the 96 still uses a cable actuated flapper door. What does the hvac controls look like? If it is cable actuated you should be able to get access or get near where the door is down below the glove box, to at least get the heat off until you can put in a new cable.

You'd need to find a rear light assembly from Europe. I know some of the guys on NASIOC have probably done that. So yeah, check ebay UK, and NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

Sounds like one of the drain areas is clogged. That lower section beneath the door sill is open, and if you remove the plastic wheel liner, you should be able to look in there. It's possible some leaves and junk have gotten in there.

On that note.....whiteline has the wrong part # listed for the US based cars. Pretty much all the newer gen subarus us the 202 bushings, and not the 200's that they call for. Just an FYI.

Here's one http://www.renickmotorsports.com/oscommerce/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=429 You might try searching NASIOC....there's bound to be someone else as well. Energy Suspension I think might have a kit as well. Some additional whiteline stuff http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/subaru_corner.html http://www.boxer4racing.com

Yes, I would highly recommend different pads. They can make a HUGE difference in how well the car brakes, and the feel.

Nice Legacy. Where in "Central Texas" are you? About twice a year the NASIOC Tx subaru owners get together for a state meet. Check out the TXIC forum on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

You can get some polyurethane bushings.....or just replace with new stock stuff. The poly bushings would probably be cheaper....especially if you get a kit or what not.

The rotors on the 05 LGT are HUGE compared most other subarus. Also, the braking system was redesigned for that car, and is pretty good. My recommendation to you would be to replace the stock pads with something more "performance" oriented, put stainless steel braided brake lines on, and use some good brake fluid.

You can try bleeding the clutch system to make sure there's no air in it. Other wise, you can adjust the clevis pin that attaches from the clutch pedal assembly to the clutch master cylinder to get rid of the pedal slop.

It should be pretty straight forward. You can also check out the legacy forum on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

year, model, etc?? You may try finding someone over there that can look for you, or see if there are any online junkyards.

The final drive ratio on the turbo legacy AT's is 3.900. So it'll match yours. Bolt pattern should be the same There is a dropping resistor over by the passenger strut tower. DO NOT unplug it. It will firm shifts up, but will cause you problems down the road. I had mine unplugged for a little while, and had issues with the car not downshifting, and some other weirdness. So, I'd recommend you leave it alone.

From a quick glance....the wiring at the TCU is different. Look at this (pg 35) http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/1995%20Legacy%20Wiring%20Diagrams.zip and these http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_at_control1.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_at_control2.jpg Find out everything that is different.

I'd still be suspicious if the A/C compressor doesn't come when you have the HVAC system in defrost. Have you put the HVAC system on defrost, opened the hood, and looked to see if the a/c compressor is clutch is engaged? What setting do you normally have the HVAC on when you notice the problem?

Check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org for more info about the first gen legacy. As for what's interchangable.....actually quite a bit of stuff is. For example....I'm running wrx front brakes, 05 LGT rear brakes, single diaphragm impreza brake booster, SVX master cylinder, impreza sti bushing for the front control arm, impreza whiteline rear subframe bushings, impreza sti front/rear trailing link bushings, whiteline sub-frame locks, etc....etc. There's a lot of info on the BBS, you'll find out what fits and what doesn't fit by seeing what other guys have already done.

I would run 10w30. The tolerances of the newer engines are tighter, so they need to run thinner oil. Plus it's more fuel efficient.

They did make FWD's. They should be swappable.

Do you have any wiring diagrams? You need to check the pin outs for the two TCU's to see if any pins are different. It's possible things are different, which is why you're having issues. Also, you need to make sure the connections are the same at the connector that hooks up to the transmission.

What year and model car???? I really would highly recommend against going one step colder plug on a relatively stock engine. Your gas mileage will be crap, the engine won't run as good, etc. If you truly think your car is "pinging" run higher octane fuel. If that makes no difference, then I don't think you're hearing any pinging. Can you describe what you are hearing/experiencing with some detail.