Legacy777

Where do you live? May want to check the marketplace forum

Where's the links?

To be quite honest, I don't see anything wrong. Unless there's a pic that isn't showing up that shows something else. The bearings are not in the engine, so I'm not sure where those comments came from....the marks on the crankcase look normal. Check out these pictures. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/05/

Yup....this is pretty common on the cars up in the NE. My buddy in college had a 95 legacy, and had to replace the filler neck tube because it rusted through.

Just was going to mention this. On the newer models, they moved the FWD fuse spot into the engine bay fuse box.

Post in the classified WTB forum that you're looking for a MAF sensor. You should be able to get one used for MUCH less money. Also, as an FYI, the black JECS MAF sensor found on the 90-91 AT, and 92-94 legacies will work with you 95. So that may give you some more options, including looking in the parts shed on www.bbs.legacycentral.org

Replace the MAF. I had intermittent stalling issues on the 90 legacy. Happened over a years time....problem was pretty much gone during the winter, but came back during the spring summer. I had a hunch it was the MAF sensor, but it finally confirmed my hunch with a code. If you can, try to find a used one or borrow someone elses to verify that is the problem. They go for about $300 new.

The ecu is located under the passenger foot well/rest area. I know you said the check engine light was on, but have resolved that issue, or is it still a problem? What is the problem?

check out this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58711

The 2000-2004 should work fine. The previous year transmissions would probably work up until 97 or so. The big thing you need to make sure of is that the final drive ratio of whatever transmission you pickup is the same as yours. That or you would need to swap the rear diff to match whatever the final drive ratio is.

check to make sure the drain for the a/c evap box is free of debris, and is connected properly. It's right behind the glovebox. You should be able to get an idea of where things are located from these pics of my 90 legacy http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/acevap/ http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/accomp/

When in drive, and you depressing the accelerater, how hard/quick were you pressing on the accelerator? Did you try flooring it, and seeing if it would downshift. Subaru transmissions are kind of finicky like this. My auto had similar issues, which I think was caused by the torque converter not unlocking. Giving it more gas to cause the trans to downshift would help. Try the flooring it thing and see if that works. Whens the last time you've checked/changed the trans fluid?

Almost sounds like you have a short, or the ECU is tweaking out.

What do you mean?

On the first gen legaices, there's a trim piece surrounding the shifter that you have to remove. The second gens are probably similar. Anyone else confirm/deny this?

When you've drained the coolant and bled the system of air, have you been opening the bleed screw on the passenger side of the radiator? If not, you need to do this in order to get all the air out. Test the fans by directly applying 12v to them, and make sure they work. If they work, you'll need to verify all the wiring back to the relays, and then to the ECU. You may need a new coolant temp sensor. They're about $20 from www.subarugenuineparts.com Also, make sure the t-stat is a subaru OEM t-stat, aftermarket ones cause issues. Trust me on that one.

If you don't get much response here, I'd suggest posting/searching in the SoCal forum on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

Did they give you the specific code? I'd suggest finding out the specific code, and do a little research on that code, see if other people have had any similar issues, and how they resolved them.

Have you flushed the cooling system recently? Subaru's over design their cooling system in my experience. I'm running a normally aspirated radiator setup on my turbo motor, and it's fine. However I put in a new radiator a couple years back. So if you have a partially clogged radiator, that could cause poor cooling.

You can buy subaru manuls from a local dealer, or d/l ones from subaru http://techinfo.subaru.com What model impreza do you have? 2.5 liter or 2.0 liter motor?

That second pic is definitely a photochop. You can see the difference in the color/shadowing between the front and rear.

I actually waxed the black strips on the door. On my car, they're smooth. However the textured parts on the bumpers I did not wax, and yeah I was just very careful not to wax those I actually did a 3-step process. Used this stuff called safecut, and then Zymo's prep cleaner called HD-Cleanse, and then Zymol wax.

I just rinsed off the engine to get the dust and stuff off. It hadn't gotten too dirty since I installed it.

They are Hella Supertones horns The exhaust is a complete kit from CES Systems in Australia http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/25/ www.cesracing.com.au It sounds really good. With a cat & resonator, it is not obnoxious at all.

It is....however it was in/new several months back. Here's the pic log of everything http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t