Legacy777

Then yeah....you could have leaves further up the system.... However that should make getting at things easier. There should be ducting/box behind the glove box. If you can remove that, you should be able to access the ducting from the motor to heater core. You may not be able to get everything, if something went past the heater core, but you should be able to check things out before.

As nipper mentioned, the speed limiter is set based on the speed rating of the tires that come on the vehicle from the factory. If you upgrade to higher speed rated tires, then technically there shouldn't be any real reason you couldn't bump the speed limiter. With OBD2, you should be able to find software that is capable of doing this.

That's odd. I've bought new receiver/dryers for my 90 legacy from the parts store and they've been fine. Have you tried a different autoparts store, or just gone back to the same one?

Sounds good.

If you go with larger brakes, you won't be able to use your 15" wheels any more.

It is probably the result of the A/C compressor cycling on and off. I get this on my nissan truck too.

shhhh

That's crazy!

I don't think the clock set buttons illuminate. Depending on what response you get, I'd recommend just going back to the dealership, and look at few other cars and see if they are like yours.

There is a nut under a rubber plug. Remove that plug, loosen the nut, and you can remove the wiper arm. That will allow you to remove the plastic shroud, which can be a bit of a pain to remove.

I'd be very surprised if the leaves made it past the evaporator (assuming you have a/c). You can remove the glove box, and the blower motor (3 screws), which should give you access to the evaporator box to be able to pull the leaves and stuff out.

That seems like a reasonable price, but there are some unknowns. There is no speedo cable, just sensors. So either the speed sensor is going, wiring has an issue or the gauge cluster is going. The check engine light may be related to that issue, but I'd try and verify what codes are stored. If you want a tach, you'd probably have to swap gauge clusters. The a/c, if it just needs a refill, it shouldn't be too much, however I'd be suspicious just like you. The motor is a good motor, and if it's been taken care of should be fine. There are some things that sound like they need fixing, which may or may not make it worthwhile to you. I'd also recommend checking out the legacy forum on nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

You need an oscilliscope to test/verify the crank & cam sensors are working properly. It sounds like you've tested some of the wiring. Verify all the wiring has good continuity from the sensors to the ECU, and back to the ignitor & coil pack. There's really not much more then this for the ignition. The ECU does all the rest. Have you done the rest a spark plug on the block to verify you're not getting spark? Or used the appropriate tester?

Are you joking around with the guy? If not, you need to chill.

Hmm.....The fact that the codes don't come back immediately would have me lean towards the fact that the sensors themself are probably ok, but that something else is causing the issue. Have you been able to correlate driving conditions, location, or anything like that back to when the codes occur? Do both codes reoccur, or just one? Are you experiencing any other driving issues? My far fetch guess would probably be that there's an electrical wiring issue somewhere, that comes & goes.....

The tone wheel is part of the ABS system. It's used to determine wheel speed and if it's slipping. here's a chopped up one http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/06/DCP_3127.JPG The bearings are held together by the hub and tension, etc. If you remove the tension, and between that and pulling the hub out, they tend to separate, and are not really the best to reuse.

Do you get a steady CEL being displayed, or does the check engine light come on, and then turn off? I typically recommend you clear the codes and see if they come back. That way you determine whether the issue is a fluke or not. I'd also recommend checking out http://forums.nasioc.com/forums as there's a TON more WRX owners over there that could have experienced similar codes.

How did you wire up the ECU? I'd suggest you read my swap write-up, particularly this blurb. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html#ecu You need to make sure that the MT/AT identifier pin does not have a wire connected to it. That will set the ECU in MT mode. That should get rid of at least code 52. You may still have code 51, which relates to the neutral switch on the MT cars, however you could probably rig something up to make things work properly.

You're post is a little difficult to sift through. When you're talking about backing plates, I'm assuming you're talking about the backing plate/piece where the brake caliper mounts to? If so, why do you have to put new backing plates on? To replace the backing plate, you have to remove the hub, which requires a puller, and you will need to replace the wheel bearings as well. Where was the play on the calipers you had? Can you describe it a little more?

They probably are, but it'd probably be a good idea to check part #'s with a subaru dealer.

I just got done swapping in a turbo engine into my legacy. I decided to keep the existing harness, add additional turbo specific sensors, and reposition the cam & crank sensor leads. What all needs to be done may be different on your car, however it should be similar. I'd recommend searching www.bbs.legacycentral.org for more info.

Yeah....there's probably something that just needs to be tweaked.

Honestly, I'm not quite sure what you'd need to do. It may be a simple computer thing. You may want to contact a subaru dealer up there and see if they have any input, or some other car importers.

Do the front cam & crank seals, as well as the rear cam o-ring on the pass. side. Also replace the o-ring between the block & oil pump. While the pump is out, check the screws on the backing plate. Reseal the oil pump with permatex ultra grey. If you do the trans swap, make sure to replace the rear main seal.....don't push it in too far, or it will leak.

Check out this thread http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=24376 I'd start by seeing how your info compares to mine, and/or the word document I've put together. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/select_monitor_dsht.doc