Legacy777

If you clean it off, does it come back right away?

I'd suggest trying to change the fluid. There is a cocktail tranny mix that a lot of people have tried and like, including myself. It helped my grinding synchro issues. On NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums in the transmission forum, search for uncle scotty cocktail or something like that. I think there may even be a sticky.

There is a spring that returns the shifter to center from the left side. There is an internal spring for the right side. On the newer transmissions, it's all internal. Maybe the external spring is gone. You can sort of see the spring in the first few pics http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/15

There are three main areas where bushings are. There's one in the rear and the front of the mounting arm. Those bushings are the same as what's on the newer WRX's, so any upgrades for those, will work on your car. Here are pics of the newer style shifter linkage & bushings. the rear one and the round one up front. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/kartboybushings/ The other place there are bushings is in the joint piece that connects to the transmission. On the older models, the bushings in the joint were replacable. The newer joint piece, you just have to replace the joint. I don't know whether your car has the older or newer style. I would guess the older style. Here's pics of the newer style joint. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/joint/

There are two main sizes of front rotors on the 90+ subies. the single pot calipers meant to fit under the 14" wheels, and the two pot calipers meant to fit under 15" wheels. Later in the game, there were 16" ones, but I believe they are the same as the 02 wrx's.

Sand blasting is probably the only thing that'll work.

Pull the EGI/TCU fuse for 30 mins or so to clear the codes. Drive the car around, and then check the codes again. See if any come back. Does your speedo work?

Get new belts. It's possible the wrong size belts were put on.

You may want to also post this in off topic, since some of the old gen board members visit, and may happen to get to junkyards in that area more then some of the new gen members.

Where did the condensor come from? A local subaru place, or just a generic parts house?

Please let us know what years you are wanting to compare.

Use a hair dryer to heat up the pin striping and just pull it off. Use some goo gone or something similar to remove any remaining adhesive. You'd probably want to use some polishing compound when you're done (after you've washed the car to remove the goo gone) to help remove any built up wax or debris that has created a lip. Be aware that the paint not covered from the pin stripe has probably faded, and you will likely be able to see where the pin stripe went.

I'd recommend swapping TCU's. Other then that, just remove the driveline and leave the rear diff and axles in.

If you can't find anything here, I believe it may have been posted in the brake forum on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

Let me take a look at the manuals again, and I'll let ya know what I find out.

Here are the wiring diagrams for the cruise control http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_cruise_control1.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_cruise_control2.jpg If you follow the power sources on the cruise diagram it definitely indicates fuses number 12 & 8 are in the circuit. Here's that diagram http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_power_supply_routing2.jpg BTW, all the above documents can be found in my AWD & 5MT swap write-up www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap It sounds like you've done some of the main diagnostic work. The cruise computer is to right of the glove box. Remove the glove box, and you'll see a metal bracket to the right, remove that, and you should be able to get at the cruise computer. I'm not really sure what to tell you. You may want to try connecting the cruise diagnostic connectors, and seeing how the cruise light blinks, and if any codes are present. josh

Yeah I've heard of a few people snapping the anti-sway bars before. Don't know if there was a manufacturing issue, or pitting and corrosion.

I haven't touched the bearings on my 90 legacy. I have 186k miles on it, have lowered suspension, stiffer struts, wider tires, etc, etc....and don't drive very daintifully. I have no problems.

You may want to check out www.legacygt.com/forums They may know.

Is this on an impreza or legacy? Typically the legacy bearings are fine and last a long time. The dealers were replacing the impreza bearings with legacy bearings for this reason. The other thing some did is did not pack the bearings with good quality grease. The stuff they are shipped in is just packing grease.

I haven't used the motive bleeder, but it should work. The bleeding sequence is: Left Front Right Rear Right Front Left Rear

I've never heard of what you're talking about, however that doesn't mean there isn't such a thing. You should just pull off the wheel.

See this blurb: Ethanol has a higher octane than gasoline. But because it has more pick up, it burns more quickly. That's why you'll use more ethanol to do the same amount of work as gasoline. "Ethanol has about 30 percent less energy," said David Morris, an energy policy expert. "That is less BTU's per gallon than gasoline and that will be reflected if you have 100 percent ethanol in your car then you will travel 30 percent less." Without the proper tuning modifications, you probably won't be able to fully utilize the higher octane, and the car won't run well. There is an E85 sticky thread on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums in the engine management forum. You may want to check that out for more info specific to subarus.

Do your mats have little spikes on the bottom to dig into the carpet? The early legacies just had the little spikes.

Not sure about the bumper issue. There's gotta be a flexible filler, but I just don't know it. As for the axles, what year is your impreza, and what year is the RS? They should work.