Legacy777

Are you talking about the moulding? You may want to try and find some in a junkyard

They're not servicable. Get a used one from a junkyard with a warranty, or post a WTB thread. Someone probably has one.

The first gen legacies really are good cars. He should like it.

05+ STi hubs are 5x114. The 04's were the only ones with 5x100

That's the path I was headed as well.

I'd suggest brake cleaner over starting fluid. It dries without any residue. Has it ever lost power/stalled while driving?

Well, it's been a little over a month since I started. I ran into so many damn fitment issues with that intercooler. Everything is in, and appears to be working. I'll need to get an EBC or something similar, because right now I'm only getting about 7 psi on the wastegate actuator. I will also probably need to swap out the radiators for something larger. I'm not sure I'm getting the cooling I need. I'll have to measure the temp of the water after a drive. Here's pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/td05 Josh

Yeah, as long as they're 17", they should fit.

Does it always do it, or just sometimes?

It probably has a certain resistance for a given pressure. However without a manual, I don't know what that is.

May want to post in the offroad forum as well.

Your cheapest route would be to get a set of outback struts & springs from a junkyard. Then get some new KYB struts. You should be able to get the used stuff for $50 a corner...maybe less.

Replace the axle, you don't know how long the boot has been torn. I had a similar occasion, had them repacked & boot replaced. Several years later I had issues with the axles.

Been there, done that, got the t-shirt http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t Depending on how far you want to go to either "refresh"/rebuild the motor and how much you get your parts from, it may be cheaper to try and find a turbo legacy. I've got probably around $6-$7k invested in rebuilding the motor, and upgrading parts. The swap can be done for a lot less if you retain the stock parts, and just swap things over. Wiring is actually pretty easy. You just have to move the coolant temp sensors on your existing engine harness (just take apart the harness loom and re-tape. The only other things are wiring up the turbo specific sensors to the ECU connectors, and swapping the positive leads for the cam & crank sensors. Since your car is a 92, you may have to deal with the AT/MT identifier pin because subaru for some reason changed things in 92. I've got more wiring details on my swap on www.bbs.legacycentral.org in the electrical forum

For what it's worth, the wiring harnesses are not the same. There are differences between AT & MT, and FWD & AWD.

I have a write-up on www.bbs.legacycentral.org regarding retrofitting to r134a. The compressors for these cars have a tendancy to fail over time due to poor design. If you're not familar with servicing AC systems, and don't want to invest in the equipment, you may be better off taking it to a shop. You're best bet would be to have a shop inject dye, and check for leaks. If they're are no leaks, do the work I recommend in my retrofitting write-up, and then take it to a shop to draw a vacuum, and recharge it. That should minimize the shop's time & expenses, especially if you supply the refrigerant.

It's possible that the overseas models may have stayed OBD1, or at least retained the OBD1 connector functionality for longer then the US models.

The mechanism may be jammed. It wouldn't move at all with the allen key? I'd suggest taking the trim pieces off and trying to diagnose it.

If your car does not have the filter on, then the dealer is obligated to install free of charge because it is a recall item. If they're wanting to charge you for a recall item, I'd tell them to pound sand. If you already have the filter kit installed, and you tell them that you just want to replace the filter....I don't see why they wouldn't sell you the kit. If not, as everyone mentioned, just buy it online. The total cost with shipping would still probalby be cheaper due to local dealer markups.

I don't know anyone tearing into that specific model, but I think I've heard of others doing something similar to their model subaru. You may want to also search over on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

You shouldn't have the EGR valve. The manual probably encompasses several years of the legacy, and the later models had EGR valves, yours does not. The specs for torquing should be the same or close enough between the 2.0 & 2.2 Josh

If you clean it off, does it come back right away?

I'd suggest trying to change the fluid. There is a cocktail tranny mix that a lot of people have tried and like, including myself. It helped my grinding synchro issues. On NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums in the transmission forum, search for uncle scotty cocktail or something like that. I think there may even be a sticky.

There is a spring that returns the shifter to center from the left side. There is an internal spring for the right side. On the newer transmissions, it's all internal. Maybe the external spring is gone. You can sort of see the spring in the first few pics http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/15

There are three main areas where bushings are. There's one in the rear and the front of the mounting arm. Those bushings are the same as what's on the newer WRX's, so any upgrades for those, will work on your car. Here are pics of the newer style shifter linkage & bushings. the rear one and the round one up front. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/kartboybushings/ The other place there are bushings is in the joint piece that connects to the transmission. On the older models, the bushings in the joint were replacable. The newer joint piece, you just have to replace the joint. I don't know whether your car has the older or newer style. I would guess the older style. Here's pics of the newer style joint. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/joint/