Legacy777

She's on the bubble with the weight sensor. A buddy of mine's gf is right around 100 lbs, and the light does go on & off occasionally. I'm not really an airbag expert, but if you're at all skeptical, put her in the back.

There are other MY's that will work. What is your final drive ratio? Your owner's manual will probably have that info. There are a few threads, try searching if you don't get an answer from someone.

You'd be surprised what makes it in the junkyard....and/or how many wrecks there are.

A 2.5RS clutch kit should work on the n/a push style transmissions. The only thing I'm not sure of is if the surface area on the first gen legacies is any different then the 2.5RS. I don't think it is....but you may want to search www.bbs.legacycentral.org as I know I've seen others use the 2.5 RS clutch setup.

Are you talking about the moulding? You may want to try and find some in a junkyard

They're not servicable. Get a used one from a junkyard with a warranty, or post a WTB thread. Someone probably has one.

The first gen legacies really are good cars. He should like it.

05+ STi hubs are 5x114. The 04's were the only ones with 5x100

That's the path I was headed as well.

I'd suggest brake cleaner over starting fluid. It dries without any residue. Has it ever lost power/stalled while driving?

Well, it's been a little over a month since I started. I ran into so many damn fitment issues with that intercooler. Everything is in, and appears to be working. I'll need to get an EBC or something similar, because right now I'm only getting about 7 psi on the wastegate actuator. I will also probably need to swap out the radiators for something larger. I'm not sure I'm getting the cooling I need. I'll have to measure the temp of the water after a drive. Here's pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/td05 Josh

Yeah, as long as they're 17", they should fit.

Does it always do it, or just sometimes?

It probably has a certain resistance for a given pressure. However without a manual, I don't know what that is.

May want to post in the offroad forum as well.

Your cheapest route would be to get a set of outback struts & springs from a junkyard. Then get some new KYB struts. You should be able to get the used stuff for $50 a corner...maybe less.

Replace the axle, you don't know how long the boot has been torn. I had a similar occasion, had them repacked & boot replaced. Several years later I had issues with the axles.

Been there, done that, got the t-shirt http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t Depending on how far you want to go to either "refresh"/rebuild the motor and how much you get your parts from, it may be cheaper to try and find a turbo legacy. I've got probably around $6-$7k invested in rebuilding the motor, and upgrading parts. The swap can be done for a lot less if you retain the stock parts, and just swap things over. Wiring is actually pretty easy. You just have to move the coolant temp sensors on your existing engine harness (just take apart the harness loom and re-tape. The only other things are wiring up the turbo specific sensors to the ECU connectors, and swapping the positive leads for the cam & crank sensors. Since your car is a 92, you may have to deal with the AT/MT identifier pin because subaru for some reason changed things in 92. I've got more wiring details on my swap on www.bbs.legacycentral.org in the electrical forum

For what it's worth, the wiring harnesses are not the same. There are differences between AT & MT, and FWD & AWD.

I have a write-up on www.bbs.legacycentral.org regarding retrofitting to r134a. The compressors for these cars have a tendancy to fail over time due to poor design. If you're not familar with servicing AC systems, and don't want to invest in the equipment, you may be better off taking it to a shop. You're best bet would be to have a shop inject dye, and check for leaks. If they're are no leaks, do the work I recommend in my retrofitting write-up, and then take it to a shop to draw a vacuum, and recharge it. That should minimize the shop's time & expenses, especially if you supply the refrigerant.

It's possible that the overseas models may have stayed OBD1, or at least retained the OBD1 connector functionality for longer then the US models.

The mechanism may be jammed. It wouldn't move at all with the allen key? I'd suggest taking the trim pieces off and trying to diagnose it.

If your car does not have the filter on, then the dealer is obligated to install free of charge because it is a recall item. If they're wanting to charge you for a recall item, I'd tell them to pound sand. If you already have the filter kit installed, and you tell them that you just want to replace the filter....I don't see why they wouldn't sell you the kit. If not, as everyone mentioned, just buy it online. The total cost with shipping would still probalby be cheaper due to local dealer markups.

I don't know anyone tearing into that specific model, but I think I've heard of others doing something similar to their model subaru. You may want to also search over on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

You shouldn't have the EGR valve. The manual probably encompasses several years of the legacy, and the later models had EGR valves, yours does not. The specs for torquing should be the same or close enough between the 2.0 & 2.2 Josh