Legacy777

I have my doubts, but don't have anything to back that up.

How is the ea81 radiator setup in comparison to the ej22? Without that bleeder screw on the ej22 radiator, it'd be very tough to get all the air out. Can you tilt the radiator at all?

Can you provide a little more details. Are you wanting the AC to come on, or not? When the system is in Auto, it's going to turn the ac/heater on to maintain a set temperature.

If you're really close to being near redline, it's possible the TCU will keep the trans from downshifting into 2nd. I would reset the ECU & TCU, and see if anything changes.

Just want to comment on the brake balance thing since I went through a lot of stuff on my car. The newer gen subies use a diagonal circuit brake system, and I would venture to say the older gen may use a similar setup to help maintain some amount of braking in the event of a failure. The problem with this is, fitting an aftermarket adj. proportioning valve is pretty much futal unless you replumb all the lines, and/or sacrafice the safety of the dual circuit design. I will caution about upgrading only the front brakes without doing something in the rear. The car will dive severely under hard/panic braking. I had this very problem along with some others when I upgraded to WRX front brakes. I got in a panic situation, the fronts locked up much sooner then I was used to compared to the old brakes and I hit the guy in front of me. There's so much you can learn about braking and tweaking this stuff, but from what I've found, the best balance is about a 10% shift rearward in brake torque compared to the original factory setup. This is mainly because the factory adds a little bit of front bias because your normal driver reacts better to plowing forward in a turn vs. the rear end coming around. Here is a spreadsheet I have created with various newer gen brake caliper & rotor information. It can be used to calculate the changes in brake torque when swapping calipers & rotors. There is a brake torque calculator with drop down menus on one of the tabs. The formulas are pretty straight forward so you could create your own sheet if you have information on the older gen brakes. The main things you need for the calculation are: Outer disc diameter Effective disc diameter Caliper piston diameter Here's the spreadsheet http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/brakemath.xls Josh

I'm pretty sure the 95 AT is still the phase 1 4EAT. There's some additional TCU inputs on the 95 compared to the 90-94's, but the plug/connector is the same. Either way...yeah you're right...switching between MY generations isn't too fun.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/

I do know for a fact the B15 trans connector plug changes style with the phase 2 trans, so while that's not a huge hurdle, it's not plug & play.

Not sure if they're the same. I have my doubts. I believe 96 or 97 was when the electronics changed slightly. However the big question would be the final drive ratio. The outbacks tended to have a lower final drive ratio.

I'm not sure they rated them back then.....if they did, I'd see if you could find some figures on the national highway safety website.

If it's the metal piece I'm thinking of....it has to be cut off, and a new piece welded in.

It should work. How high it's going to raise is a question. If it's less then an inch or so, I probably wouldn't bother.

Did you get this fixed or is it still not working?

Glad it was an easy fix. The car will probably run a lot better now too.

Nah....probably wouldn't happen

It's the chassis code. The first gen legacy sedans have a chassis code of BC. The normal wagons are BJ, and the raised roof wagons are BF.

There are various things to upgrade. However there may not be much specifically listed for your model.....most of the pre 02 impreza stuff will fit. I'd recommend KYB struts. There's a tranny cocktail one of the guys on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums has come up with. Check out the trans forum and search for uncle scotty's cocktail. I've been really happy with the shifting results. You should be able to put a short shifter in your car, if not, you can swap over to the new style linkage and then be able to run a short shifter. I'd personally recommend just replacing the front and rear linkage bushings with poly bushings. You can get them from www.kartboy.com Others should chime in as well. Welcome to the subie clan Josh

rod bearings are a pain to find. Have you tried Jamie?

If it's a true touring wagon it has to be AT unless it's been swapped over to a MT. For $150 though I don't think you can go wrong.

The thing though is that this is an automatic. At full throttle you get torque multiplication through the torque converter , so the car still is going to pull all the way to redline. I know that's the one thing I miss about my automatic when compared to the MT.

Ditto to do this.

Cool pics. Where in Houston were you at?

Sounds like someone swapped in a 1.8 to replace the 2.2. The US didn't come with a 1.8 in the legacy.

What sealant to use

Use the Ultra Grey. Personally, I'd pull the trans. The motor has a lot more stuff to reconnect. Also, for future sealant reference. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/subaru_sealants.gif