Legacy777

Simple answer is you can't adjust anything on the TCU. Some people have put a switch, or potentiometer in the duty c solenoid wiring to force 50/50 torque split....but I'd be cautious about how you do that.

It's possible the axle could be the cause.

I've got some various scans as well as the engine & electrical section from the 92 legacy http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/

I'd suggest posting in the WTB forum with a little more details on the year & body style she's interested in.

I'd suspect your starter solenoid is sticking.

It has a blue connector, and is between the brake & gas pedal area up under the dash.

The ECU & TCU should have the same plugs. You should be able to just swap them. I'm not really sure why it would just affect the duty c solenoid. The main reason I am recommending swapping the ECU is because of the injectors. The injectors styles are different, and the ECU is setup for the individual injector types. The reason the MT/AT identifier pin will affect you is because for some reason the 92+ ECU's are wired backwards for the MT/AT identifer pin, when compared to the 90-91's. For example, if the wiring harness grounds that pin to tell the ECU it's an auto....and you stick the other ECU in, it will be backwards, and the ECU will think it's a manual. NOTE: I know for a fact the 92 ECU is like this and am assuming the 93 is the same. I think it'd probably be best to just hook things up, and see how it runs, if it's acting oddly, then you'll need to deal with the mt/at identifier pin.

Sounds like an aftermarket alarm, so I don't see why you couldn't do it yourself.

No probably not.

You need to find out exactly what he did with ALL the wiring for the swap. Do that before you do anything. You really need to be running at least the 93 ECU, and probably wouldn't hurt to run the 93 TCU. Keep in mind my comments regarding the MT/AT identifier pin.

If it continues to come back it probably needs to be replaced.

Larry, May want to also post in the meet & greet forum or ashtray as well.

Congrats on the new purchase. I don't have anything really to add about your questions, hopefully someone else will chime in.

The wiring between the 90 & 93 are not the same. The 90-91 MY's are the same, and the 92-94's are the same. The engine electrical harness is different between the 90-91's and 92-94's, so I'm wondering what he did about that. He could have just swapped the 90 engine harness over to 93 engine, and that should have worked. Other thing to note is the injectors are different in the 90-91's and 92-94's. You should match the injectors with the ECU, so I'd recommend running the 93 ECU. That may lead to issues with the MT/AT identifier. For some reason the 92's onward are wired backwards from the 90-91's and what the factory manual states. I'd suggest reading this info from my swap write-up about the MT/AT identifier http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html#ecu If the binding is still there with the FWD fuse in, I'd suggest testing the duty c solenoid http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/duty_solenoid_c_diag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/duty_solenoid_c_diag2.jpg If that checks out ok, then you've got some other sort of issue.

Unless the mounts are ripped or broken, I don't think replacing them will cause any difference. Regarding the pitch stop mount. I didn't see any difference in how the car operated with or without it installed.

If you get a OE replacement axle back, you should be able to just take the old one off, and put the new one on. You'll need a new gasket, and probably need new bolts (SS bolts from the hardware store are what I'd recommend) since the old ones are probably going to be rusted fast, and need to be cut off.

Yeah I'm not sure if it even would override the ECU. Typically boxes like that modify the signal going to the ECU to get it to increase fuel or timing, etc.

Do you have an intake on the car? There has been issues with bogging with aftermarket intakes. Other cause can be a bad knock sensor. The older knock sensor was prone to short out, and cause issues. If you reset the ECU, and the car drives good for a little while, it's probably the knock sensor.

Not sure what you mean..

The newer headlights are a little different, but you can try my method of wet sanding and clear coating them. There's a sticky thread in the body & chassis forum on www.bbs.legacycentral.org The thread name is "How to get rid of Yellow Headlights"

I'd question how this things works, and what it is actually modifying. After trying a torquechip, I'm just not sold on "plug-in" chip type engine management.

Which one?

They should do that and then some. I had mine up to 130 on level ground on one of the tollroads around houston

I want to just clarify that this is for the rear brakes. The rear backing plate does not do squat for cooling, and it is not easy to replace. The hub must be pressed out of the spindle to slide the backing plate off. The wheel bearing will typically need to be replaced at the same time. Here are some pictures with the dust shield removed from the backing plate. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/08 I do agree that the dust shield does help keep junk out from behind the rotor, but unless you're driving down dirt roads and doing crazy stuff, you should be fine....even in the snow and rain. Lastly, if the actual backing plate, not the dust shield is rusted out, it really should be replaced since the caliper bracket mounts to it. Josh

Don't worry about it. I cut mine off to install larger rotors, and that was about two years ago.