Legacy777

Personally, I think it's time to regroup, look at everything you've done, any change that may occur, etc. Right now, you're just throwing parts at it, and that's not the way to about things IMO. Try posting a summary of the problem again, and of all the stuff that you've done, and maybe having all the info in one post may shed some light on things that was overlooked.

Just to clarify what Dr. RX mentioned. There are two different type of clutch setups, pull and push. There are two different type of actuation systems, cable & hydraulic. All cable systems use a push style clutch, however not all hydraulic systems use a pull style clutch. So as Dr. RX mentioned, if you want to use a WRX clutch & flywheel, you would need to swap the transmission as well as the pedal assembly.

The seats should swap.

I really doubt they have coil on plug units. Nothing in any of the factory or parts books I have for the first gen legacy specifically call out a different coil arrangement for the RHD Legacies.

The backing plate helps keep stuff out, but I believe the mounting hardware for the drum also mounts on there, so depending on where things are rusted, you may or may not have to replace it.

Mike, Are you looking for the front or rear O2 sensor? Also, what is the build date of your 2000 Impreza? Part # wise, it looks like subarugenuineparts has the number right, however if you post the build date I can check the number for you. This number 22690AA000 looks to be for the mid 80's cars

Do you know if the 93 impreza has cruise control? I need one of the brackets off the actuator. I can post a picture.

It'd be much less work to keep the cable clutch setup. You just need to swap the clutch fork over from the cable setup, and move the pivot ball on the transmission. You'll see what you need to do when have both transmissions sitting side-by-side. If you were to move to the hydraulic clutch setup, you'd need to swap over the entire pedal assembly, which is a real pain. Personally I like the hydraulic clutch feel better, but I don't think it's worth the extra work.

Hey.....another Houstonian Do you know if the shop put in a subaru thermostat? If not, you still may have some issues. Don't ask me why, but Subaru engines act weird if they don't have a subaru thermostat in them. BTW, you may want to check out the texas forum on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums There are local get togethers every week, and state meets at times throughout the year. If you still have problems with the car, let me know, I could take a look at it. Josh

I would say for option 1, you're looking at probably $3,000 on the low end...and could go up another $1,000 or so, depending on the machining labor and stuff. Option 2 can potentially be less expensive if you find all the stuff used, and just plop the used stuff in. If you go about replacing the used components, and/or rebuild the motor....you're going to be looking at more money. My only comments about option 2 are that you're going to need more then an S-AFC to properly tune and operate that setup. It's going to run like poop with an S-AFC. You need a piggy back option, stand alone, or you need to hack/reprogram your ECU, if that will even work.

bump

You're talking about the piece right after the headers right? Or are you talking about the section after that with the cat? You're sort of out of luck because junkyards can't legally sell you used catalytic converters to my knowledge. However you could try private party..... I'd suggest posting in the WTB forum, as well as the parts shed on www.bbs.legacycentral.org

Does it matter if the roof is open or close?

Nope, it won't work. They are different.

The 92 ECU's went in both AT & MT cars....it doesn't matter. What does matter is that the ECU is correctly pinned so it knows whether it should be controlling the engine for "automatic mode" or "manual mode". It does this via the MT/AT identifier pin on the ECU. On the 92's (or at least the 92 ECU I've dealt with) if that pin is grounded, the ECU is in MT mode. If that pin is floating (nothing connected to it) the ECU is in AT mode. A lot of this info is in my AWD & 5spd swap write-up and may be worth reading if you haven't. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html

That's what the factory manual said, but who knows....it has been wrong in the past. If you have not done so, or don't have the wiring diagrams. I'd recommend you d/l these scans of the factory manual from me http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/ It's about 9.5 mb. No the F doesn't mean anything. I'd recommend you post a WTB post in the parts shed on www.bbs.legacycentral.org I'm sure you can find an ECU of there for A LOT cheaper then what you're going to find at ECUdirect.

You may want to check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org I don't recall anyone having this particular problem, however I do know the sticky in the body & chassis forum will help with the leaking part.

That thing on the side is the inhibitor switch. There should be a wire with a connector like the other transmission. I don't believe the inihibitor switch is different, so what I'd try and do is swap the inhibitor from the 96 tranny onto the 97 tranny. I "think" you can unbolt it from the transmission and swap it, without having to tear into the guts of the transmission. Josh

ljohnston, Did you not see my post saying I've pm'd Manarius, and to move on with the thread? Obviously nobody can play nice, thread gets locked!!!

The ECU is from a 92 MY Legacy. Vrg's scan tool should work. You may want to email him. As for the IAC wiring, the spec is different for AT & MT. The MT spec is 12v on pin 2 of the F47 connector....(which goes to 0v after 1min)......and 0v on pin 1 of the F47 connector. Make sure you have pin 1 of the ECU going to pin 3 of the IAC valve, and vice versa, make sure you have pin 2 of the ECU going to pin 1 of the IAC valve. I really don't think your IAC valve or TPS is the issue. I'd suspect either your wiring, or the ECU itself.

You've got the main things. You can probably skip the idlers, but that's up to you. There is an o-ring that seals the oil pump & block. You can replace this. Also, sometimes the screws on the back of the oil pump backing plate back out, and need to be tightened. I will usually put a small dab of locktite on them to keep them from backing out in the future.

Replace this piece and you should be good. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg It's a common issue for the spinning shaft in the base piece to break.

Guys I've pm'd Manarius. Please carry on with the thread...

You're going to feel some blow by gasses pulsating coming from crankcase.

Bump, Anyone have any ideas?