Legacy777

D'oh....the AT & MT FWD mounts are different. That's too bad....I'd like to sell this mount to someone who can use it.

You can go to subaru's website and see for yourself. here's some Link to the impreza line where you can see more pics http://www.subaru.com/shop/overview.jsp?model=IMPREZA&trim=25I_SPORT_WAGON

Aaron, You really need to find some way to get a signal to the VSS pin on the ECU. The ECU looks for a square wave signal from the VSS. Without it, the ECU will sort of freak out, and go into a limp mode. It changes timing, a/f ratios, and turns the cooling fans on. I had all these weird issues with the car when my speedo went out. So it's something you will need to find a solution for, or the engine is not going to run correctly. The neutral switch basically just tells the ECU when the car is in neutral or not. It is mainly used with automatics to adjust timing/idle control since going from gear to neutral alters the engine load. On manual trans cars it may still be used, but it's affects are almost not noticed. As long as the AT/MT identifier pin is correctly identifying the transmission type (again assuming your using a MT), you'll probably be ok leaving it off if your transmission does not have a neutral switch. Some people have wired the neutral switch up to the clutch switch, so the ECU will be told the car is in neutral when the clutch is depressed. I've done both tranny & engine swaps on the first gen legacies, and have thoroughly researched the wiring issues, so let me know if you have any specific questions. Josh

I think I can add some things. The 90-91 non-turbo engines have 3 square connectors behind the battery. The 92-94 non-turbo engines have 2 square connectors behind the battery. The 91-94 turbo engines have 2 square connectors and 1 round connector behind the battery. The engine harness is pretty much the same between the turbo & non-turbo first gen legacies. The only difference is the location of where the coolant temp sensor is. On the n/a engines, the coolant temp sensor is on the passenger side. On the turbo engines it's on the driver's side. For my ej22t swap, I reused my 90 n/a engine harness, but just peeled back the tape and wire loom, and relocated the wiring connectors to the driver's side. Other then that, the engine harness remained the same. As you mentioned, the turbo specific sensors come through the chassis harness from the firewall. I added the leads for those specific sensors, and that was pretty much all the wiring I had to do. At the ECU, I had to swap the positive pins of the cam & crank sensors because they are reversed for the turbo engines. In addition I had to unplug the mt/at identifier pin because the 92-94 n/a ECU's are wired backwards for some unknown reason.

Sorry to hear about the problems with the head gaskets. Hopefully they've figured things out. I've started hearing less head gasket issues now compared to a few years ago.

The biggest question I'd have is if you're going to swap the intake manifold. That may not match up with the 2.2 heads. If that's the case, you'll have to pull the wiring harness from your current 2.5 and swap it over so you can use the 2.2 intake manifold, but keep the 2.5 wiring harness (The reasoning for this is that the harness connectors will likely be different between the 2.2 & 2.5) I don't know how the 2.5 ECU will handle the 2.2 either. There could be some ECU pins that are different. I can see this project has a potential to be quite a pain in the rear depending on how things unfold, and how much documentation you have on each motors, etc.

I know for sure there is a difference between AWD & FWD tranny mounts. I don't recall if the AT & MT FWD mounts are the same. I'll check when I get home. If they are, I have brand new FWD AT tranny mount I bought to use in my Legacy, but never put it in before I swapped to AWD.

Nope.....I wouldn't mind selling them, but shipping makes it not worthwhile.

Tell them to replace the entire trunk/spoiler with a new one.

I don't recall if I have the 600's, but I have a set of yoko guardex I ran on my car when I was in PA. I was very happy with them. They had really good traction/stopping/etc in the snow & ice.

That works for the reason Noah mentioned, but you really should have another black connector somewhere.

You need to connect the black connectors. Green connectors are for an "active diagnostic" http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=428662#post428662

The links are good, try these https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing1.jpg https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing2.jpg https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG

Yeah, the IAC valve will still have a duty % amount when coasting. You can check it while idling, however it'd provide you the most information if you checked the voltage when the problem/CEL was occuring. Josh

There are more drains, however I'm not really sure where they are. As for the water under the door. The plastic wheel well protector allows gunk to build up from the drain at the windshield. You may want to take off the wheel well protector to clean all the junk out.

Yup, Look in the fuse box, find the one for the cig lighter, and swap out the old fuse for the new one.

The injectors don't shut down. They may go to a minimal duty cycle, but they don't shut off. You need to listen to your ECU. It's throwing a specific engine code for a reason. The OBD1 computers aren't super smart like the OBD2 stuff, so the only reason it'd throw a code is if it's getting a resistance outside its normal range, or the IAC isn't responding like it's supposed to be. I'd suggest checking all the wiring from the IAC valve to the ECU to confirm it's good. I'd also hook up a volt meter to the power source of the IAC valve to make sure power is not fluctuating. From there's I'd get a meter that can measure duty cycle, and watch what the duty % is on each of the open & close leads coming from the ECU. Or try and get the BC-BF scan tool to work. Can you post the part # for your ECU? I'll check it out and see what year it's from. Maybe your ECU is on the fritz... Josh

If you're low on refrigerent, the expansion valve works extra hard, which is more then likely what you're hearing the hissing from. I'd start with adding refrigerent, and see if that fixes the problem.

You may want to check out www.legacygt.com/forums as they may be able to tell you. I would venture to say, you'd probably need to swap harnesses, or add two wires yourself.

The No. 4 fuse is the the Number 4 fuse in the fuse box in the driver's footwell. It should be labeled EGI/TCU or something like that. If you have your owner's manual, it should also give you a blow schematic of the fuse box, which numbers the fuses are, and what they do. If all else fails, pull the negative battery lead for 30 minutes.

You may want to see about using a USDM WRX fuel control module. I don't know if they're the same, but I do know the US WRX's from 2002 onward have them. Other option is to see if you can get an importer to get you one.

Yes 5spd to 5spd is easier, but my write-up still cover's the majority of what needs to be done. You need the trans, driveline (wagon & sedan are the same), rear subframe, rear diff, AWD fuel tank, rear crossmember, hubs, struts, and other suspension components. You also need the fuel separator. The wagon & sedans have different separators, and you will need to get the appropriate one. If you have any questions, let me know, but my write-up covers things pretty well. Josh

At least the belt didn't shred. I fixed a 91 turbo legacy that the idler gear busted. It destroyed the belt. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/shreddedtbelt/

Yes they should. I'd recommend the whiteline steering rack bushings. You need the ones with the following part # KSR202. They are for the 30mm wide passenger bracket. The KSR200 bushings are for the cars that have a 25mm wide passenger bracket.

What sort of temperatures are you dealing with when you say "cold"?