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Everything posted by Legacy777
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Ok....that's good to know subaru didn't just do things too willy-nilly
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Ok, I looked in my parts books, here's what I found....even though it still sounds like it conflicts with what you've seen. It does say that the 90-91 n/a's have 3 square connectors, while the 92-94 n/a's have 2 square connectors. It's possible there were a few that changed over early, maybe late 91 MY production vehicles....who knows. Again the parts book says the 91 turbo used 3 square connectors, while the 92-94's used 2 square & 1 round connectors. The ej22t in my car is a 93 MY, and it had 2 square connectors & 1 round one. So it still may be a crap shoot. The only other thing that is mentioned is that there were different engine harnesses for vehicles bound for Canada, the USA (49 states), and California spec vehicles. So maybe that too has something to do with it... Josh
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Aaron, You really need to find some way to get a signal to the VSS pin on the ECU. The ECU looks for a square wave signal from the VSS. Without it, the ECU will sort of freak out, and go into a limp mode. It changes timing, a/f ratios, and turns the cooling fans on. I had all these weird issues with the car when my speedo went out. So it's something you will need to find a solution for, or the engine is not going to run correctly. The neutral switch basically just tells the ECU when the car is in neutral or not. It is mainly used with automatics to adjust timing/idle control since going from gear to neutral alters the engine load. On manual trans cars it may still be used, but it's affects are almost not noticed. As long as the AT/MT identifier pin is correctly identifying the transmission type (again assuming your using a MT), you'll probably be ok leaving it off if your transmission does not have a neutral switch. Some people have wired the neutral switch up to the clutch switch, so the ECU will be told the car is in neutral when the clutch is depressed. I've done both tranny & engine swaps on the first gen legacies, and have thoroughly researched the wiring issues, so let me know if you have any specific questions. Josh
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I think I can add some things. The 90-91 non-turbo engines have 3 square connectors behind the battery. The 92-94 non-turbo engines have 2 square connectors behind the battery. The 91-94 turbo engines have 2 square connectors and 1 round connector behind the battery. The engine harness is pretty much the same between the turbo & non-turbo first gen legacies. The only difference is the location of where the coolant temp sensor is. On the n/a engines, the coolant temp sensor is on the passenger side. On the turbo engines it's on the driver's side. For my ej22t swap, I reused my 90 n/a engine harness, but just peeled back the tape and wire loom, and relocated the wiring connectors to the driver's side. Other then that, the engine harness remained the same. As you mentioned, the turbo specific sensors come through the chassis harness from the firewall. I added the leads for those specific sensors, and that was pretty much all the wiring I had to do. At the ECU, I had to swap the positive pins of the cam & crank sensors because they are reversed for the turbo engines. In addition I had to unplug the mt/at identifier pin because the 92-94 n/a ECU's are wired backwards for some unknown reason.
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The biggest question I'd have is if you're going to swap the intake manifold. That may not match up with the 2.2 heads. If that's the case, you'll have to pull the wiring harness from your current 2.5 and swap it over so you can use the 2.2 intake manifold, but keep the 2.5 wiring harness (The reasoning for this is that the harness connectors will likely be different between the 2.2 & 2.5) I don't know how the 2.5 ECU will handle the 2.2 either. There could be some ECU pins that are different. I can see this project has a potential to be quite a pain in the rear depending on how things unfold, and how much documentation you have on each motors, etc.
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The links are good, try these https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing1.jpg https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing2.jpg https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG
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The injectors don't shut down. They may go to a minimal duty cycle, but they don't shut off. You need to listen to your ECU. It's throwing a specific engine code for a reason. The OBD1 computers aren't super smart like the OBD2 stuff, so the only reason it'd throw a code is if it's getting a resistance outside its normal range, or the IAC isn't responding like it's supposed to be. I'd suggest checking all the wiring from the IAC valve to the ECU to confirm it's good. I'd also hook up a volt meter to the power source of the IAC valve to make sure power is not fluctuating. From there's I'd get a meter that can measure duty cycle, and watch what the duty % is on each of the open & close leads coming from the ECU. Or try and get the BC-BF scan tool to work. Can you post the part # for your ECU? I'll check it out and see what year it's from. Maybe your ECU is on the fritz... Josh
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The No. 4 fuse is the the Number 4 fuse in the fuse box in the driver's footwell. It should be labeled EGI/TCU or something like that. If you have your owner's manual, it should also give you a blow schematic of the fuse box, which numbers the fuses are, and what they do. If all else fails, pull the negative battery lead for 30 minutes.
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fuel pump control module for the ej20tt
Legacy777 replied to micahsauter's topic in Subaru Transplants
You may want to see about using a USDM WRX fuel control module. I don't know if they're the same, but I do know the US WRX's from 2002 onward have them. Other option is to see if you can get an importer to get you one.