Legacy777

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1990_Legacy_Owner_Manual_Scans/117.jpg The 90 info should be the same for the 91 Legacy. As for lockup....once locked up (like driving down the freeway) , the engine rpm should match the input shaft of the transmission, and have no losses through the torque converter.

You guys are making it more difficult then it really is. Take your engine rpm at 55 mph and divide by the gear ratio of the gear you're in. Since you're probably in an overdriven gear, you will get higher rpm output (driveshaft rpm) then the engine rpm. eg: 3000 engine rpm / .987 (5th gear, gear ratio) = 3039.51 rpm

You need to try and identify where exactly it's leaking. I'd suggest cleaning everything off, and then watch and see where the leak is coming from.

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If you don't get any answers here, you may want to post in the meet & greet forum

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You have to pull the instrument cluster to replace them. Unfortunately, that's not really an easy task as the black trim around has to be removed, etc. I had to lower the steering column to be able to slide that trim piece out.

You're very welcome Yes the ECU & TCU are located under the dash on the driver's side on the 90-94 legacies. In 95, when they went to OBD2, the ECU got relocated to under the footwell on the passenger side. As snowman pointed out, the later models, when they went to OBD2 use the AT Oil temp light instead of the power light.

The TCU is right next to the ECU. This pic shows both http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg I also have how to pull codes from the TCU on my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html

I doubt there is an "official" speed warning tone.....it's probably just wind noise from something.

There are slight differences in the nozzle type, which affects fuel flow for a given pulse length. You need to use the injectors that match up with the ECU you are using. If your current motor/ecu uses the red injectors, you should pull the fuel rails off and swap them over to the new motor. The other injectors will run, but I experienced very poor mileage and loss of power, which I contributed to the fact I was running richer then I should have been.

I think the big factors in your decision should be cost, down-time, & longevity. Unless you have something wrong (other then minor headgasket leak) with the current engine, I don't think performance, quietness, or mileage are going to change a whole lot.

As long as both cars are AWD the physical strut should be the same. There will probably be some damping ratio differences, depending on whether or not the strut is OEM or aftermarket. Aftermarket manufacturers tend to bump up the damping ratios compared to stock, and offer the same strut for sedans & wagons. So...either way, you should be good to use them.

Was all of 95 dual port? I thought it was the bubble year and some had dual and some didn't....?

Sorry to hear about all the issues. It really sounds like you need to find another dealer to go to....

I'm not sure what the charge is. I'll have to look at the sticker on the car, and compare it to the Haynes AC book I have.

You can swap it in....however you will have to deal with wiring, and swap the exhaust manifold, and probably a few other things. So whether that's considered "major" modifications....I don't know. Personally, I'd probably have the 2.5 head gasket redone.

My 97 impreza does that too....it wasn't defogging worth a crap this morning. I have not checked the pressures on the system, but I suspect once a critical temperature is reached the temperature sensor in the evaporator core will turn off the compressor until the evap core temp rises. You will still get some moisture condensing, but I agree it won't be as effective. However....if it didn't do this, the evap core would probably freeze up. If I get around to it, I'll check the pressures on the impreza & post back. The first gen legacies had a wobble compressor that varied geometry, and therefore didn't need to cycle. Good in theory, however they will eventually fail. I'm on my 4th one....and decided to buy a brand new one from the dealer since the other used ones died.

Depends on the plug. Copper plugs, I'd do every 30k or so. Platinum plugs are supposed to be able to go to 100k, however I'd probably change them sooner.....that's just me.

Sure you could swap out the entire pedal box.....it's just a real pain in the butt to do that.

All the 90-94 non-turbo 5spd trans. have a 4.111 final drive ratio. Only the turbo legacy MT has a 3.90 final drive ratio. Plus the clutch setup on the non-turbos will require pedal modification and stuff you don't want to do. I'd suggest trying to find another turbo legacy transmission

That's my write-up so if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

You're correct.

Koyo makes good radiators.....haven't heard of them making bearings.....but I'm sure either would be fine.

I haven't heard of them....but that doesn't mean they're not good. You may want to try searching on the web as well....see if there's any reviews.