Legacy777

Is your 98 AT or MT?

My suggestion would be to pull the accelerator pedal assembly out, find out where the spring is, and see if there's any way to install another one, or replace the stock one with a heavier duty spring. Either way, it's going to be a custom job.

You'll probably be fine. An upgraded wiring harness & connectors with relays isn't a bad idea, but you'd probably be ok.

There should be a spring that holds the clutch fork against the piston. Also, you can put a little bit of grease in the indent where the piston goes. That will help quiet the noise.

The manuals state vacuum at idle without ac should be 19.96 in HG or something like that. And yeah, you shouldn't have any fluctuations in vacuum if you're using a good vacuum source. The brake booster is alright, and that other spot you mentioned yarikoptic sounds like it's vacuum, so you could tee into that.

Loosen the bolt holding the anti-sway bar onto the Lateral link (a-arm). Also, loosen the front bolt holding the lateral link to the front crossmember. This should give you enough room/play to remove the axle. Others remove the ball joint or struts to get the clearance needed to remove the axle, but the above method allows you to do the axle without needing an alignment or chance messing up the ball joint boot.

I'm not sure if on the 95 MY's....but there may be a vacuum hose point on the top part of the passenger side of the intake manifold.

You shouldn't be "resting" your foot on the accelerator. Use the cruise control. When do you experience/most notice the fact you are accelerating?

Welcome. This may help http://www.randomsoup.com/subie/huggyalarm.html

You may also need new struts. The wavey or intermitant spots wearing on the tires can be a sign of work struts.

May want to try the meet & greet forum if you don't get any replies here.

It really depends on where you get it, and what vintage you're looking at.

You don't need to do anything with the timing gears

The offset isn't going to cause that. The +48mm offset will move the wheel further outward, which is better for keeping things from rubbing on the inside compared to the +53mm offset wheels. Your issue is with the alignment. Did they give you a sheet that said what the final alignment specs were? Did you hit any big bumps/curbs or anything like that since the alignment? Are all the tires like this?

You may want to call your local subaru dealership or one of the online subaru dealerships. They can probably help.

did you get this figured out?

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It's probably the canister purge solenoid. It looks like they relocated it from the older legacies/imprezas.

I can't say for sure off the top of my head....I'm pretty they'd be swapable. Matt Monson, who is a member on nasioc and the legacycentral bbs would probably know for sure. I would suggest trying to post on the legacycentral bbs or PM him.

You may want to search/post on www.legacygt.com/forums as the posters there are mostly new gen legacy owners.

Let me ask you this.....what power levels do you want to make. If you plan to stay n/a, don't expect anything more (probably less) then 200 chp at the VERY MOST from a superb/excellent setup.

Got a picture of one......never seen one to my knowledge.

My 97 OBS is doing the same thing....I adjusted it a little bit....but sounds like I need to do something similar.

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The Haynes manual is wrong. All you need is a long socket extension. Shouldn't take you more then 30 minutes at most.