Legacy777

Welcome to the board. If you buy the new parts, yeah you can pretty much bolt everything in yourself. The bolts do tend to get rusty. So soaking them in penetrating oil helps. I will ask the question.....replacing the cats is rather expensive.....and I'd question whether they actually need to be replaced. Have you gotten a second opinion on the diagnosis? Can you describe the exact symptoms you're experiencing? Josh

There is no fuel surge tank on the legacies. There is a baffle in the fuel tank where the pump sock goes, but that's it. Is that what you're talking about?

at least it should be an easy & cheap fix

Those punches I made definitely help keep the punch on the roll pin so you can get a whack on it. This can be especially important when putting them back in. That's more of a pain then taking them out. I'm not sure what to tell you, yeah maybe look for some new punches.

Those roll pins are used to help eliminate play in the linkage. If you have a bench grinder, make yourself a set of punches out of some 1/4" round bar. That in conjunction with a good set of longer punches will make removing and installing the roll pins much easier. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/jointcustom/DCP_4188.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/jointcustom/

More then likely you have a collapsed hydraulic valve lifter. If you haven't done so, I'd recommend replacing the oil & filter. That may help. Otherwise, assuming everything else is good, you'll need to replace the collapsed lifter

It's fine.

It may be similar, but the same....probably not...

The one from the 02+ WRX If you're not using one from a 02+ WRX, you don't need to worry about the rear transfer gear ratio not being 1:1

In the newer cars, the 02 WRX and I believe the newer models as well have an effective final drive ratio of 3.90 In the transmission though, there is a 1.1:1 gear reduction, so the rear diff ratio is 3.545. If you take 1.1 and multiply it by 3.545 you get 3.889 or something like that. I believe subaru did this to help reduce gear noise. Also, the SVX did not have a 1.1:1 gear reduction to my knowledge. The final drive ratio was 3.545.

Yes, the 93 legacy 4EAT uses a 1:1 transfer gear. The front diff is also 3.90

Not sure if you still need the info, but these should help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/EJ20_DOHC_Camshaft_Installation_Procedure.pdf http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/EJ20_DOHC_Cylinder_Head_Installation_Procedure.pdf

Just out of curiosity, have you tried clearing the codes by connecting both the green & black connectors, rather then just disconnecting the battery? I'd suggest trying that. The instructions are on my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Josh

You actually put more load in the higher gears, but the reason you probably can't get it to slip is because the engine doesn't have enough torque. Chances are they may be some contaminents on the clutch/flywheel that are causing your problems. If it only happens when cold for the first few minutes of driving, I'd probably just try and live with it, because other then that, you'll need to probably replace the clutch.

You're welcome for the help. It sounds like it's going to a good home though.

You need to use the same "kind" of ECU as you had before. The 90-91 legacies had MT and AT specific sensors. (MAF, coil pack, injectors, IAC, etc). The AT cars used a JECS ECU, while the MT cars used a Hitachi ECU. You need to use the correct brand of ECU that you had in there before. If you had a JECS, you need to use a JECS. In 92, all the legacies went to the JECS ECU's

I'd recommend replacing the purge solenoid, as it can sometimes cause issues when trying to clear codes. Here's a pic of the ECU http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

You definitely have an AT computer based upon the part #. The black connector is the main relay. The blue connector is the inhibitor relay. You still need another relay for the clutch relay. You could probably work around this, but it still sounds like you've got other issues that need to be fixed. Having not tried using the AT computer I can't say for sure whether it would work. However I could have sworn someone on www.bbs.legacycentral.org used an AT computer and got it to work. How good are you with reading wiring diagrams and electrical stuff in general? If you're not that strong, you may want to just try and find the stuff from a MT car. Also, I'm going to combine your two threads, so all the replies are kept in one spot.

I could get you info like what you posted above....which may be a small piece of the puzzle.....

If the thermostat installed was not a subaru thermostat, I'd recommend replacing it with a Subaru thermostat. Most aftermarket thermostats are not as deep, and have different responses to temperature change.

-1.0 deg camber front & rear. 0 toe front & rear. You may not be able to get that much camber, or may have more in the rear. Depending on how good the tech is, he should be able to loosen some of the bolts and get things to where they need to be.

What type of information are you looking for? Similar information like what you posted for the ea series front axles? I can scan the info out of my first gen legacy service manuals. Shoot me an email as a reminder. Josh

Keep an eye on ebay. I picked up one of the first gen select monitors and a few cartridges for around $300 I think. But I don't think you'll find too many new select monitors on ebay though....

It looks like the one in the picture posted by Durania717. That picture is from my car.

Typically the "rear wheel steering" is accomplished simply by how the suspension is setup. It's not like the rear wheels have a steering rack. I believe the honda accord has a similar setup. I'd be interested to know what they changed, if anything on the rear suspension.