Legacy777

Have you checked the TCU for codes? Usually if the trans light blinks, that means there's a code stored.

You should be able to replace them yourself.

What's your transmission type? Pull or push?

Possibly, but there may be superceeded parts on the newer hub.

The air bypass valve is again something different. It's also known as the idle air control valve. Here's a picture of the IAC valve http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2470.JPG Picture of the canister purge solenoid valve http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2471.JPG The pressure exchange solenoid can be seen near the top left of the picture. It has the brown connector facing up http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/32/DCP_6012.JPG

How did you set the timing up? All you need to do is align the marks on the cam pullies to the marks on the timing belt cover, same goes for the crank gear mark. Did you use the arrow on the front of the crank gear instead of the mark in the back?

Tim, I'm not sure you're going to find a write-up with the info you want. I'd suggest following the instructions that came with the alarm, and/or talking with a local alarm install shop for recommendations/help.

Yeah, you should be able to find uv dye for the ac system in a can.

I'd recommend you look over my swap write-up www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap Parts from any of the 90-94 legacies and even some newer subarus can be used. The 4WD route would be more difficult as the engine/transmission mating points are different. If you search, you'll probably be able to find some more details on that. Josh

If you do open the system up, a strong vacuum (around -29 in/hg I believe) needs to be drawn for at least 30 minutes to boil off any moisture in the system. If you don't have to open the system up, I'd also recommend adding some PAG oil to the system, as the oil may have leaked out over time, and if the system is low on oil, it could cause premature failue of the compressor.

Actually, you shouldn't discharge 134a into the atmosphere either. It's a greenhouse gas and is toxic.....but anyway...here's some info http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=156670&page=1

Probably not. What context was Haynes using the term bypass valve?

Actually what he described is for the canister purge solenoid. The pressure exchange solenoid is used to switch between taking readings from the atmosphere, and intake manifold vacuum readings. This is done to compensate for barometric pressure changes due to weather and elevation.

I wouldn't recommend swapping just the front. It might be a little difficult, plus could produce unexpected handling characteristics. If you want to try it, you'd have to cap off the air lines in the front. I'm not sure how the computer would handle not seeing the front struts....it may not like that.

Nipper, Did you measure those values or get them from a manual?

My legacy had similar problems which yes were caused by that MAF, so it looks like your MAF is needing to be replaced.

Email Rallitek & see.

The ECU has an AT/MT identifier pin. Depending on how that pin is setup, will tell the ECU whether it's connected to an AT or MT equipped vehicle. So it should know whether or not the vehicle you plugged the ECU into has EGR or not.

No worky.....here's the link on the diesel. The legacy looks pretty nice! http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/hot_lists/car_shopping/green_machines/2008_subaru_legacy_outback_2_0d_first_drive_review.html

Welcome to the board. It could be a couple things, but I'd suspect it may be the throw out bearing on the clutch could be making the noise. That'd be the cheapest and probably first thing I'd replace if I was going to replace something. Josh

Yeah...you need to put a protective coating over the headlight lense. That keeps the air out, and lense from oxidizing.

The stock EJ22 exhaust is probably pretty decent in terms of flow for the EJ18 engine. I don't really see you getting a huge gain in gas mileage by doing anything to the exhaust. If you want to try something, I'd start with the muffler since it's the cheapest. Anything else IMO the benefit doesn't outweigh the cost....if you're just looking for gas savings.

bump I'm pretty sure they don't have line outs for amps/subs.

If you have any kind of annual inspection, that won't fly.

You can't really do that with OBD2 cars as you'll get a CEL for cat inefficiency.