Legacy777

Sorry for the late chiming in. I've been traveling all week for work. Personally, I'd buy a used rack, put new boots & tie rods on it, and put it in. As for the axles, yeah some of the parts store axles are crap. I have not used MWE, but have read good things. I have used http://www.cvaxles.com with pretty good success. What part of town are you in? I could take a look at it if you want. I'm in the galleria area, and should be in town this week. Drop a PM or email if you're interested.

The struts don't lower & raise the ride height. I'd strongly recommend KYB GR2 struts as replacement struts for the first gen legacies. They are leaps and bounds better than the monroe struts.

That's not too bad a price. I'd suggest checking out http://www.legacygt.com/forums Someone there may have heard of them.

Bump. Anybody have any info to help him out?

Something newer will work. The main things you will need to address if going with a newer trans is that you will need to swap over the speedo cable output. The newer one has the speed sensor on the trans vs. in the combination meter. The other item is the shift linkage & u joint on the transmission shift rod. You can switch the newer u joint setup back to the older setup. Or you can upgrade. The cheapest way is to pickup a used WRX shifter assembly, and use the newer u-joint & bolt/nut. The newer transmissions are also a 6-bolt setup vs. a 4-bolt & two dowel pin setup. But that shouldn't be a big issue. The other thing is that on the WRX transmissions the starter bolt setup is different. There is not a stud on the WRX transmissions. I do not know if this also holds true to the mid-90's transmissions, since that is probably what you will need to use. Unless you want to swap your clutch pedal assembly over, you will need a transmission from a non-turbo subaru with the push clutch setup. If you get one that has a hydraulic clutch, you will may need to tap the other boss so you can change the pivot point for the cable clutch arm. You can see what I'm talking about in this picture http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/02/DCP_3077.JPG

I'm sure there are good engine rebuilders out there, but CCR does do good work.

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I haven't much about turbo failures. Is that a common thing with the XT's?

There's probably a few. The texas regional forum on NASIOC would be a good place to search. Most of them are probably going to be impreza owners. However there's starting to be more Legacies and Foresters.

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Welcome to the board. The biggest advantage you have is that you're moving to an area where there are probably independent subaru only shops. They tend to be a little less expensive and very knowledgable when it comes to Subarus, so you end up spending less. Other thing to note is if you buy the parts yourself, sometimes online or from specific dealers, you can get better pricing. I recommend http://www.subarugenuineparts.com They are in the Seattle area. Also, as it was mentioned, depending on the part you can find used parts. The biggest thing to keep in mind about used Subarus and maintenance is the routine maintenance. If you buy one that has had all the routine maintenance done, timing belt, seals, fluid changes, etc, 150,000 miles is nothing for these cars. However if you get one that has had very little routine maintenance performed, you open yourself up for a chance for potential problems, and repairs at one time.

Have you tried changing the wiper blade? It should operate consistantly.

The fan on the driver's side is the main fan, and should be working. On vehicles with AC, there's a sub fan short connector that is jumpered to have both fans operate together. I would say it's odd that the passenger side fan is the only one working. I'd check the main fan relay and make sure it's working and that it's getting electricity and a signal from the ECU to turn on. Depending on what you find there, you may have a relay issue or possibly a wiring issue....assuming the motor didn't go out on you.

Should be pretty straight forward....however I have never removed the rear bumper beam....just the front.

You're probably alright. Did you check the trans level with the car running?

I'd like to, but I'm not sure of my schedule. My mother has indicated that she wants to spend some time with me...you know how mothers are. Tuesday, my brother and I are going down to a shooting range in the Tacoma area. I don't know the name, but Tuesday would probably be the day I would have some time. If you guys have some ideas on where to meet up or what to do, let me know. My mom mentioned something about go karts at a place in Kent. I believe I've been there several years back, but don't recall the name. I'll subscribe to this thread so I get any updates emailed to me. I will be checking email relatively frequent, but can't guarantee I will be checking the board often. Let me know.

Looks like fun! I'm actually heading up to Seattle to visit with my family next week. My brother said they still had a decent amount of snow on the ground. It sounds like it's friggin cold too!

It should.

You're right in that the air conditioner is involved. Something is up with the idle speed control. It could be a sticking idle air control valve or something else. But yeah that's what is happening.....the idle speed control is not working the way it should.

The solenoid itself is on the shifter assembley, or at least it should. What I would do is find the solenoid, disconnect the connector going to it, use a multi-meter to verify the brake switch and everything is working correctly. If it, just swap in a new solenoid, and it should be good. If the wiring going to the solenoid doesn't test out ok, then you have a more complicated matter on your hands.

I'd check the transmission and engine mounts, as well as the shifter bushings.

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You got them backwards. The cast impeller is of the curved vanes, and has a higher flow. The stamped impeller is more then likely the straight vanes, and has a lower pumping efficiency, which consumes less power from the engine at a given rpm.

Yes they are non-interference. As for $400 with a blown headgasket, probably not. You can probably find one that is in tact and running for similar or less money. Plus, with the blown headgasket, you don't know if the motor was run overheated, which can give you a whole different set of problems. I'd pass on that one with the blown head gasket.