Legacy777

If it's not the cv joint, the bearing caps may be loose allowing play in the transmission.

I have not heard about this, but you may ask over on www.legacygt.com/forums They may know for sure whether this works.

Enjoy Colorado. I think I'd probably rather be there then Houston....but this is where the job is BTW, I was up in PA this past weekend, and yeah there are subarus EVERYWHERE. I was amazed how many of the new Legacies there were. I think between my three uncles/aunts & their kids, they have six subarus .

Is the play in the cv axle joint or in the axle stub?

The quick and simple answer is no. You essentually have to change the entire front end (hood, lights, grill, bumper beam, bumper skin, etc) to use the 92-94 fenders on the 90-91 MY legacy.

What kind of play? Play during steering, cornering, ?? I'd suggest getting under the car with a big pry bar and pressing/pushing on things to see if you notice any movement. You can do this for the bushings as well. I'd do that first. Trust me, you don't want to replace those bushings.....they're a pain.

I'd be curious to see what you find out about omstar

Only thing I will caution you about is that the first gen ej22's used a center thrust bearing setup. I pretty sure some ej25's have a rear thrust bearing setup. I don't know however which years, if any have a center thrust bearing setup.....and I can't really comment on using an ej25 crank & rods over the ej22 stuff. If you don't get any more info here, you may want to search on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums or http://bbs.legacycentral.org Josh

Which bushing, the front or rear bushing for the lower control arm? The rear wouldn't be too bad. You'll just need a big breaker bar and torque wrench. The front bushing is no fun. You'll pretty much destroy the bushing removing it. Installing it is a pain. You may be able to find a local shop that has a press and is willing to give it a shot. However due to the shape of the lower control arm, supporting it so the bushing goes in straight is difficult. They are metal sleeved bushings, and are a pain to get in. You may almost be better off trying to find a used lower control arm from the junkyard with a good bushing. Not sure how much the dealer would charge. Just out of curiosity.....is your bushing bad? It's not a normal item that I'd say goes bad.

I think it helped a little....but to be quite honest, that was a long while ago, and the car has undergone A LOT of changes since then, so to say whether it makes a difference today, I don't know. I'd have to plug in the bypass plug and drive around to see if I notice a difference.

Yeah I have one. I've been pretty pleased with it. It's been installed since the summer of 2002. No reliability issues. I posted some info about it on my site. There's a link to pics http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/mod.html#engine Josh

These cars do some weird things without the speed sensor working. So you definitely need to get that working. You can check the trans codes via the info on my site http://surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html More then likely the base piece on the trans broke. It's easy and inexpensive to replace www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg

It's hard to say. There is a sensor ground on the intake manifold. I'd be suspicious about the coolant temp sensor since it was pegged hot. That may be a good starting point.

The external filter was an add-on kit done by the factory due to a manufacturing issue with the transmission and mean to stop any "bigger" metal objects. It's supposed to be a "lifetime" filter. It's really not a filter, it's just another screen type filter.

I doubt it's the filter. It could be old transmission fluid, and a worn transmission.

Most external filters supposedly never need to be changed according to Subaru....but it's something you could do at 30,000 or 60,000 mile intervals if you want.

Cool, I'm around the Galleria area, but have some friends that live in NW Houston. If you have any questions about Houston, drop me a PM or email. Josh

Yeah, I'm down in Houston, been down here a little over six years.....wow it's been that long What area of town are you looking to move to? Josh

If the relays and everything are good, you need to replace your coolant temp sensor, and/or bleed the cooling system of air.

On the coolant crossover pipe under the intake Here's a picture http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2475.JPG

I saw some people doing some tests over on the legacygt.com forums and they found that they got the coolest air when they left the climate control on auto vs. trying to manually control. Also, there's varying levels of automatic control, and I'd have to look again to find the thread over there. But there's full auto, and when you decrease the temp or fan speed that puts it into a semi-auto mode....and I don't recall if there's one step further down from that, but you get the idea.

You may need to adjust the brake band. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/transbrakebandadj.jpg

Probably not much, if anything. There may be different tolerences, and or just a different companies part #.

The bearing on my pump was an NSK 6202V Check out my thread on the legacycentral bbs for some details/info http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=24143&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=power+steering+pump Here's a blurb from one of my posts regarding the bearing

To get the bearing out you need to more or less disassemble the pump. I rebuilt my ps pump and put in a fresh bearing. Bearing cost me like $15-$20, and the rebuild kit wasn't too much. The bearing is pressed onto the shaft, but can be pressed off. I've got some pictures of my rebuild, which may help show what's involved. www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/psteeringpump Power is out at my house right now, so my server is down. It should be up in an hour or two. Hopefully.