Legacy777

What type of information are you looking for? Similar information like what you posted for the ea series front axles? I can scan the info out of my first gen legacy service manuals. Shoot me an email as a reminder. Josh

Keep an eye on ebay. I picked up one of the first gen select monitors and a few cartridges for around $300 I think. But I don't think you'll find too many new select monitors on ebay though....

It looks like the one in the picture posted by Durania717. That picture is from my car.

Typically the "rear wheel steering" is accomplished simply by how the suspension is setup. It's not like the rear wheels have a steering rack. I believe the honda accord has a similar setup. I'd be interested to know what they changed, if anything on the rear suspension.

Glad to hear the MAF fixed your problem.

You could probably get by with one liter, however I don't know how much you'll have left. When flushing, suck out the old fluid from the resevoir with a turkey baster. If you need to "bleed" the system, you may want to get another can just to be safe. One thing to note, you really don't want to leave brake fluid sitting around for too long as it absorbs moisture. Make sure you secure the lid tightly on any remaining fluid to keep moisture out.

What exactly do you get with the program? Is there some documentation you received?

I don't see why you couldn't use those heads. The only issues you need to keep in mind is that the mounting of the intake manifold does vary, so I can't answer whether your existing intake manifold will bolt up. Other thing, you didn't mention whether this is a 2.2 or 2.5. If 2.2, you need to make sure the exhaust port config is the same, which it probably should be with those year vintages.

It depends on what type of valve failure. Did the valves hit each other, or did they smack a piston? It could be more involved then just swapping heads.

Yeah....as mentioned, check the codes stored using the black connectors. You may or may not find any other codes. You still need to replace the CPC solenoid.

First thing's first, you need to replace the canister purge solenoid. You can do all these different tests and cleaning, etc. But as long as you have an active code stored in the ECU, you may have other issues that are not showing up because of it, or you may be having issues because of the cpc. In theory you shouldn't have any drivability issues with the CPC failed, but I remember a thread or two where there were the car wouldn't idle/run too smoothly. So, just to make sure that isn't the problem, I'd suggest replacing it. Plus the ECU is funny where it won't show other codes, or clear the codes stored if a code 35 is present. So just bear with me, replace it, clear the codes and go from there. If you haven't run across my site, I'd check it out for reading codes, etc. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru under engine related. The only weird thing I noted is that there were two quick flashes at the beginning of the first video with the CEL flashing. Are you connecting the black connectors or green connectors to check the codes? As for the way your car is running in the second video, I don't see anything out of the ordinary. Any additional details you can provide of the specific problems you're having would help. Josh

The projection lights should have separate bulbs for low & high beam. Projector for low & normal for high beam. Where do the 4 wires come from? Do two go to the projector & two to the high beam?

I'd just get regular 6.5's. If you need more depth when the window is down, just use some spacers.

Yes they should.

I would venture to guess they'd use the SB7100. What size wrench do the current bleeders use? 8mm or 10mm?

Your best option would be to build this scan tool http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/b10scan/ It allows you to monitor the ECU, which includes an option for pinging/knock. There's a thread with more info on the scan tool in the electrical forum on www.bbs.legacycentral.org

I'm assuming you're talking about the transfer drum in the 4eat. I haven't heard too many issues with shearing the transfer drum from the output shaft on the first gen legacies. But they do have significantly less torque. The turbo legacy guys may have some issues, but I still haven't heard of too many.

You may want to post in the meet & greet forum as well. Also, if you don't get any suggestions, you may want to check out the regional forum on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums Josh

You've got a short somewhere. You need a wiring diagram that shows the entire circuit for SBF-6. You need to remove the fuse for each item that is in the SBF-6 circuit to help narrow down what leg of the circuit the short is in. From there, you'll just need to try and track down where the short is. You may want to pickup a circuit breaker with the same amperage rating as the slow blow fuse to rig up, so you can just reset the circuit breaker while you're testing, rather then having to replace the fuse every time at $5 a pop.

It shouldn't be too difficult if you have some technical apptitude.

Not quite. There's actually a decent amount of things that are different. That doesn't mean they aren't interchangable....but they are not identical.

bump

I didn't read every piece so it may have been covered, but you can simply wire the city lights in with your accessory/side marker lights. That's what I did when I installed the EDM lights on my legacy. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/edmlights/ http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/edmproject/

Yeah I had to do this recently when someone busted the window on my legacy. The hardest part is getting the glass through the hole at the top of the door and into the door.

The first gen legacy uses a 1.5 DIN radio, with a 1 DIN pocket. I'm pretty sure the 02 WRX uses a 2 DIN CD changer/radio. So you could remove the 1 DIN pocket on the legacy. You'll need a little plastic trim piece to fill in the small gap, but it should work.