Legacy777

This is correct. With the green T diag connectors connected, the fans will cycle on and off.

Shoot me an email, I can reset your password.

There's a distinction between the elctronics going on the injector and the nozzle just needing cleaning. If they just need cleaning, get them "rehabed" If it's the electronics, you have to replace them. If you have one injector that has bad electronics replace it with a used one, have them sent off to be cleaned and slap them back in.

Are you talking about the black trim at the top of the roof? I can't see you leaking there, as they are just decorative pieces. You may want to post on www.bbs.legacycentral.org Someone over there may be able to help with how to removing them.

bump...

welcome, and I'm going to move this post to the new gen forum.

Yes you can replace them. I replaced both front door checkers on my 90 legacy. I don't recall the price, but they're not much, and relatively easy to install.

No....just add a little at a time.

I've been meaning to do this for a while now, and just didn't find anything I liked.....until now. There's A LOT of pics there, all of the pictures I've taken while I worked on my car, and what not. Enjoy....try not to kill my server, and let me know if you have any issues. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ Josh

Wow....that's pretty poor business practices.

I think 4 quarts will be fine. You'll probably have a little extra.

Here's the more technical review http://techon.nikkeibp.co.jp/english/NEWS_EN/20080222/147866/

The parts with the R & L stickers are considered the fuel rail. They hold the injectors and are mounted to the intake manifold. The reason they are R & L specific is because the rear fitting one the R fuel rail is different so that the fuel pressure regulator can bolt to it. The L fuel rail just has the fuel lines connected to it. I think you'll be good with what you ordered. Josh

Pretty cool stuff. 26,000 PSI fuel pressure....that's insane!

Where is the R & L sticker? Is it on the injector itself, or is it on the fuel rail? On the first gen legacies 90-94, the fuel rails are left & right specific, however injectors should not be left/right or cylinder specific. Is your 93 Impreza a US spec vehicle? From the info I've found and the parts book, the part # you want is 16611AA300 Josh

I wouldn't really get too concerned about flushing over just draining and refilling. If the service interval on the cooling system & tranny are done regularly, draining and refilling should be just fine. Typically where you see flushes being a benefit (as well as detremental) is on older vehicles or cars with higher mileage that did not receive routine maintenance.

You probably won't be able to drop the diff or the axles without undoing something on hub. I usually remove the long bolt that connects the lateral links to the rear hub. That will usually give me enough play to get the axles off the stubs of the rear diff. That's the way I'd do it. Then you can remove the rear diff.

The reason I say that is because it looks like there's a lot involved with adjusting everything properly. You need specialized tools, dial indicators, etc. I don't know if you have all that equipment.....plus to properly adjust things, the rack needs to be removed. It doesn't sound like you're wanting to do that. You were just planning on adjusting the backlash in hopes of tightening up the steering. If I misunderstood or jumped to that conclusion please let me know.

I'm not familar with the 03 forester layout, but you should be able to just remove the two lines going to the dryer, remove the pressure sensor, and loosen the clamp that holds it. You'll want to drain the oil out of the old dryer into a measuring cup, and put the same amount of oil back into the new dryer. It should use PAG 100.

bump

To be honest....after looking over the manual....I wouldn't suggest messing with the backlash adjustment. But that's me....

I know at least one additional sensor is the torque converter speed sensor. That's just from memory. I'd have to lookup what else has changed.

If your ECU was MAP based, then yes you would have a problem. However your ECU is MAF based, and accurately measures the air entering the engine, and will adjust to modifications.

Bump. Anyone able to help netman out?

The chances of you running lean on an n/a motor is pretty slim. You will more then likely still run richer then ideal. Adding a cone filter, and changing cams may increase air flow, but the MAF sensor should calculate that, and add the appropriate fuel. It has been found that adding a cone filter can play havoc with the MAF sensor, and cause it to give false readings. So, you may want to try swapping back to the stock air box, depending on how the car seems to run.