Legacy777

I was not aware the Baja was made in 1995. What transmission do you have, auto or manual?

The little bolt with an orifice is one of the oil squirters for the underside of the piston. They are notorious for loosening and ending up in the oil pan. They have a little check valve in them so they only open at higher oil pressures. I couldn't tell you how high though. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/03 If the oil squirter has fallen out, much more oil will be coming out of the hole then is supposed to, which will probably lower the oil pressure.....which may have led to the issues the motor is experiencing. The pictures below show how big the hole is without the oil squirter. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/06 It's possible the hydraulic lifters are collapsed making the valve train noise. That is a relatively easy check. But beyond that without tearing the motor apart, I think that's about all you can do. There sounds to be multiple issues. Hope that helps

It's called the tranquil clutch sleeve kit. It's gotten pretty good results and has been around for a while. You can get it from a couple different places, but here's two links http://www.smart-service.com/store-tranquil-sleeve-kit.html http://www.hotsubarus.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=435

I believe there should be a relay. However if you're upgrading to bigger horns, you may want to run a line from the battery and use a separate relay so you have less voltage drop.

You should be able to keep the hyd. clutch setup. To my knowledge the pivot ball is just moved to the other "boss" (you may have to tap it) and you can swap over the hyd clutch fork & slave cylinder.

The idle switch is in the TPS. The only adjust that needs and should be done to the TPS is to adjust the idle switch. Follow these instructions to adjust the idle switch. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg

The pumps tend to last for quite a while. I hear of a very few amount of the first gen legacies on the boards that have their pump go out, and the 1990 MY is coming up on 20 years. It probably couldn't hurt to replace the pump, but it certainly wouldn't be high on my list of parts to replace.

I don't know if the forestor uses the same cruise diaphragm setup, but if you could snap some pictures, that'd help. Thanks! Josh

It's a 5spd. I'm not sure that the trans type matters. I think the fact it is a 2.2 vs. 1.8 is where the difference is. I think after a certain point, subaru made cruise an option and sold it as a kit. That kit is no longer available, or I would have just got the kit.

He was trying to get the cable out to get the heater control unit out. It's definitely the control unit. The solder joints are a common failure point. Stan, I'll see if I can find any info in the manuals regarding getting that heater control unit out. From what I remember, the cable shouldn't be limiting you getting it out. Did you take the stereo out? There may be screws just above it. I don't recall exactly. Josh

My impreza is a 1997 outback sport. Your cable length appears to be the same as mine, which kind of confirms my thoughts it was pulled from a 93 MY. Is your impreza a 1.8 liter or 2.2 liter? Would you mind taking some pictures of the throttle body area, and throttle cable mounting to the intake manifold? Thanks Josh

I've been trying to get cruise installed on my Impreza for a while now. I bought the parts from another impreza to install. When I went to do the install I found the cruise throttle cable is too short. The donor car was a 93 Impreza I believe. I know for my MY Impreza they had a cruise add-on kit with everything you need. So I don't know if something changed between then...but the cable is about an inch too short. What I'm looking for is some other Impreza owners that wouldn't mind measuring the cable from the mount point to where the cable end point is on the throttle cam. Mine was about 6", and I'm pretty sure I need around 7" to make everything fit. Here's some pictures I took that may help explain. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/imprezatb/ Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Josh

There is no fuse, just a relay for the fuel pump. There is also a connector under the rear seat that you can disconnect to remove power from the fuel pump.

Does anything else not work? Chances are there are other components on that fuse. The fuse is probably in the cabin, but I can't say for sure. If you get a test light or volt meter you can test each fuse to make sure you have voltage on both sides of the fuse. Josh

That's most likely the torque converter unlocking or locking.

Yeah, means the torque split will probably be more towards 50/50 then it would if the manual button wasn't depressed.

All the manual button does is keep the transmission from shifting into 1st gear when the gear selector lever is in the 3 or 2 position. When the gear selector is in D or the 1 position, the manual button doesn't do anything. Here's another post from the sticky http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=410273#post410273

The TCU will not let the torque converter lockup, and possibly not into 4th on the newer models if it's not receiving a speed sensor input. Fix your speed sensor issue, and you should be good.

Looks like a cool place to go drive. I like the first gen Legacy with the wheel in the air

Use the stock n/a one. I've been using it since I did my swap. If you have both radiators, I'd be interested in side-by-side pictures and dimensions. If you use the stock n/a radiator you need to tie the fitting near the radiator neck to the turbo coolant resevoir tank. You tie it to the port that was meant for the line that comes off the passenger side of the turbo radiator. You also need to remove the lower rubber gasket on the radiator cap so that coolant can flow to the turbo coolant resevoir tank. I know that sounds kind of complicated, but if you search the BBS it was discussed when a few times, including by myself. Josh

You don't need the complete harness. You just need to run the pins for the boost related sensors back to the ECU connector. Besides that, you need to swap the positive leads for the crank & cam sensors, and move the coolant temp sensor wiring down slightly on the engine harness. Much easier then swapping a complete harness. Also, the turbo legacy radiator won't fit in the non-turbo cars. It's taller.

This thread is over 4 years old....

I'll put in a good word for the Jazzy kit. I put one in on my ex gf's 06 outback so she could have XM. Here's some pics from the install. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/outbackxm/

I'd have to find the info....but there is a place in the Seattle area that makes a reduction type gear thing that fits into the cable to correct the speedometer reading. I looked into a little while back, but never followed through.

Glad to hear you're giving the Legacy some attention now Mines been getting more attention after sitting for a while.