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Everything posted by Legacy777
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Really to quite honest, shifter feel is really what most people complain about. The bushings on the stock shifter setup, and even the STi short throw are so-so. The kartboy front and rear bushings are hands down the best bang for your buck. Doing nothing else but those bushings will provide the most noticable increase in shifter feel. Even the STi shifter can benefit from the kartboy bushings. As mentioned, the TiC pivot bushings can help as well, however they are not as big an issue in my mind. The only additional item to mention, which does cause slop in the shifter is the u-joint connecting the linkage to the transmission. The bushings in this joint are rather flexible, even new. The 5-spd joint is rivoted, so there's no replacement of the bushings. TiC has developed bushings for the joint on the 6-spds, however I don't know if they've come up with one for the 5-spds yet. This is primarily because the earlier 5-spds used a centering spring, while the newer ones did not. I ended up making a custom u-joint setup utilizing nylon bushings. Here's some pictures. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/jointcustom various busing options http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/joint2/ Stock 5-spd joint http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/joint/
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Yes, if the system has been opened up for any reason, you need to pull a vacuum. You need to do this primarily because air contains moisture, which in an AC system can freeze and cause nasty stuff to happen. Plus the a/c cycle (system) will operate more efficiently without air in it. You need a set of AC manifold gauges. You can get a cheap set for around 50 bucks. The better sets are a little more, but worth it since the fittings are better. You need to pull a deep vacuum, ~29.99 in/Hg for about 30 min. Then you start charging the system with refrigerent. Start pressurizing with the system off. Once the pressure in the can equalizes with the system, start the car and run the ac system. make sure to only have the low pressure suction side open....and keep the can facing upright so you don't draw liquid into the compressor. I'd really recommend taking the car to someone to have this done if you don't have any ac experience. It "should" be cheaper to have someone do it, than buying all the equipment to do it right.
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Well after nearly six months, I finally finished (mostly) the install of my Link stand alone engine management, AND got the engine started yesterday. This project has been over a year in the making. I purchased the Link over a year ago, but did not start the install until November due to other projects and what not. But it's finally in, and all I've got left to do is have an intake tube fabricated and have the car tuned. I'll keep my fingers crossed that everything gets finished by early June. I'll be sure to post dyno results once I have them. Here's some pictures from the project. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/linkinstall
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New Legacy owner from Norway
Legacy777 replied to legacystl's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Welcome to the board! -
More than likely what you are hearing is the flashing of the liquid refrigerent to a gas across the expansion valve. Normally you don't hear this because the regular amount of refrigerent needed to provide adequate cooling is designed not to create excess noise across the expansion valve. However if you're low on refrigerent the expansion valve will have to flow more refrig. through it to provide similar cooling capacity. I'd suggest checking the pressures on the system, and probably having some refrigerent added.
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There is an oil separator plate on the back of the engine. Some are plastic, some are aluminum. Replace the plastic with aluminum. here's pics of the plastic plate http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/22/DCP_5115.JPG http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/14/DCP_4895.JPG
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What year/model are you swapping all these parts into? Another Legacy? If it is a 90-91 Legacy that was an AT, you'll want to cut the AT/MT identifier pin wire to trick the ECU into thinking it's a MT. I've got more info on my write-up page. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html#ecu
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Subarus are typically a little louder, plus the wagons tend to be a tad noisier. Without hearing it, it'd be difficult to say whether it's normal or not. Wheel bearings might be a culprit, but beyond that, if the rear diff fluid is good, I'd say the noise is probably normal. Only other thing I can think of is tires. Cheap or worn tires tend to be rather noisy.