Legacy777

That's probably not too bad. Yes I believe the headgasket issue has been resolved by that MY.

I'd highly recommend the KYB GR2 struts. Do not get Monroes. Had the monroes for a short time on the front of my Legacy. Got KYB's in the rear, and then finally upgraded to KYB's in the front. The difference in handling was night and day.

Yes, you will need a fitting to connect to the can, and then another adapter to open the schrader valve on the service hose. It really doesn't matter about the oil. It should not hurt anything to use the one with oil. in all actuality, it's probably lost a little bit of oil over the years. There is typically o-rings at any piping connection.

I've had good luck with http://www.cvaxles.com as well.

Is the transmission an automatic? If so, try inserting a fuse in the FWD fuse holder. See if the squealing goes away. If the rear diff bolted up to the driveline, I don't see any issue there.

Depending on how it bolts on, you may be able to get it to fit.

PM your VIN number and I should be able to verify the transmission type.

Subaru recommends against machining the flywheel. It changes the engagement point and can cause some issues. Depending on the wear of the flywheel it should probably be replaced. If it is the original flywheel, it probably will have hairline heat stress cracks. You can probably find a lightly used one for reasonable money. The costs sound reasonable. You may not have a toasted transmission, but without going into it, it'd be hard to say. You may just have problems with the clutch. Regarding the rear cat. I would suspect the problem is probably with the O2 sensor, and not the cat. If the cat were bad/plugged you would have other engine drivability issues.

You probably do not want to hear this, but you should not use HID bulbs in a reflector meant for halogon bulbs. The "hot spot" on the bulb is different between the two bulbs and the reflector will not properly reflect light. The result is light scattering all over the place blinding on coming traffic and providing a poorly lit road. Here's some more detailed info. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

I think after 95 the Legacy had the electronic speed sensor vs. the cable. However you can change the speed sensors over, so that's not a problem. The electrical really shouldn't be a problem. Those plugs could be changed if need be. The main thing you need to make sure is that the final drive ratio matches.

Welcome. Is this a Legacy or Loyale? Is it carb or EFI?

You may want to check out the Legacy car audio specific forums over on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

Get a whole car. When I did my AWD & 5spd conversion there were a few little things I did not think of, and it was nice to able to snag them from the donor car. Plus it's much cheaper that way, than trying to find a piece here and there.

Welcome to the board. As you have diagnosed, I believe the problem is with the stalk. I have heard of this issue before, so I'd recommend on replacing the stalk and see if that fixes the issue.

I would say probably not. The Legacy was a completely different car than the Loyale

I normally will drain all the coolant out I can, fill with water, run the engine and heater to get the water in the heater core, and then drain the water out. Depending on what I get out, I may do that one more time before refilling with antifreeze/water mix. Autoparts stores do sometimes take old oil & antifreeze. Some cities also have local recycling centers that take used oil & antifreeze.

Manual button: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html#manualbutton The manual button doesn't do anything in Drive. It should not affect torque convert lock up.

The Loyale is more of an Old Gen car. You may be able to find some info on schematics/diagrams in the old gen forum. To expand on what Scoobywagon mentioned. You should make sure the manifold valves are shut. Depending on the connection at the vacuum pump, , there may not be a way to keep air out. If that is the case, you just need to purge the yellow hose & manifold for about 3 seconds once the AC can is connected.

Plus due to the difference in the shape the response to temperature is different and can cause a lot of weird things happening. I experienced this back in 96 or 97 when I first replaced the thermostat in my Legacy.

Temperature related issues typically tend to be the coolant temp sensor. They run about $20 from one of the online subaru dealers. Not sure about those other things the dealer mentioned. I'd request they show you a TSB about the reprogramming, and why the O2 sensor needs to be replaced.

I'd replace it. Make sure you use an OEM subaru thermostat.

Maybe I missed it, but what year and model subaru do you have?

How much pressure do you have in the system?

You're going to have to do the same amount of work to replace the boot....and in most cases more work to replace the boot than just swapping axles. The only problem with just replacing the boot is you don't know how long it's been damaged/torn. So you don't know how long dirt and other grime have gotten in there. If it's not leaking much grease, that probably means it's dry, which is also not good. Just because it's not making noise doesn't make the joint good. If it were me, I'd just replace the axle. I just got done doing this TWICE on the Impreza because I got some POS axles from the local autoparts store that caused vibration and were leaking grease....already.

In your searching, have you reviewed the wiring diagram for both computers? That would probably be my first suggestion.