Legacy777

You're going to have to do the same amount of work to replace the boot....and in most cases more work to replace the boot than just swapping axles. The only problem with just replacing the boot is you don't know how long it's been damaged/torn. So you don't know how long dirt and other grime have gotten in there. If it's not leaking much grease, that probably means it's dry, which is also not good. Just because it's not making noise doesn't make the joint good. If it were me, I'd just replace the axle. I just got done doing this TWICE on the Impreza because I got some POS axles from the local autoparts store that caused vibration and were leaking grease....already.

In your searching, have you reviewed the wiring diagram for both computers? That would probably be my first suggestion.

Can you pinpoint where the noise is coming from? Sometimes you can have pressure leak by from the high side to low side, but that is typically more of a hissing sound.

You could probably bypass the clutch, but I definitely wouldn't bypass the brake. There's a diagram at the bottom of this pdf which may help. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/1997_Impreza_Cruise_add-on.pdf

There is no 180 deg out with these motors. Just line up the marks and install the belt. BTW, at those marks, the timing is not at TDC. Also, make sure you use the correct mark on the crank gear. It is the mark at the BACK of the timing gear and not the mark on the front. You can see what I'm talking about in this picture. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2728.JPG

The first gen legacies are kind of an oddity. They have power locks, but they're not really your typically power locks, at the driver's door. For the older subarus, including the first generation legacy. If you turned the key, it would unlock the driver's door, if you turned it a little further, it would unlock all the doors. Because of this there was no electric actuator on the drivers's door lock system. It does sound like you may have more than one problem. First thing you need to do is remove the door panel. That will let you see the locking mechanism & rods. I'd start with the key lock assembly. There are rods going up to the key lock cylinder and door handle. There are plastic clips you can slide off the rods to allow them to detach from the lock cylinder and handle. Then you can remove the door handle by removing the two 10mm nuts. Once it's out of the car you can test the lock cylinder and see if it's turning freely. Once you do that, you can check out the locking mechanism rods and plastic connector joints to make sure nothing is binding, and they are lubed. Hope that helps.

I've never heard of any subarus with dual mass flywheels, however that doesn't mean they don't. I however don't see why you couldn't replace the dual mass flywheel with just a normal flywheel & sprung clutch......

Replace the tensioner, and make sure all the idler pullies are good. Over time the grease will dry up, and they can seize. This is especially bad when it's the idler gear. This is what happens http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/shreddedtbelt

Have you tried a very high grit sandpaper? I wouldn't go nuts with it, but it shouldn't bother the mating surface.

An up pipe is something for a turbo charged car. You do not need one. As you have found, there's not much out. If you want the most gains from the exhaust have an equal length header setup made. MRT used to make a setup like this, and it produced the most gains in the non-turbo engine compared to a typical subaru header configuration. The only thing to keep in mind is that if you go with an equal length header, you will lose the deep subaru rumble exhaust note. It will be a more raspy sound, but still sounds good.

Yeah, I'd probably start with getting the wheels balanced.

I would probably start with the basic tune up items, filters, spark plugs, etc if you have not done them recently. If you or someone you know has an OBD2 scanner, you can watch the ECU parameters to help aid in troubleshooting.

I do have a high flow cat from magnaflow that I am using with my aftermarket exhaust. It seems to work alright. However I don't have any experience with replacement cats for OEM exhaust. In reality, it should work fine. I don't know if they will last as long. They should still pass all the emissions tests/checks. My suggestion would be to see if you can get some feedback from users in Europe on the non-OEM catalytic converters being sold.

Probably not

Probably something broke inside the transmission with the shifter fork. Not much you can do about it unless you open the transmission up.

bump

Should be fine using a CAT from another country.

You should be able to use a pocket or cubby from the first gen legacy or some other subaru.

Scott, I will caution you about using non-oem steering boots. A previous owner replaced a boot on my Impreza with a non-OEM boot, and it was just a tad too short so when you were at full lock with the steering, the boot was being stressed/stretched. Eventually, the boot tore, and I got to replace it.

Pulling the AT trans SUCKS! I definitely did not enjoy that job.

You should be able to get the yellowing off with some plastic cleaner, or clear coat rubbing compound and cleaner wax.

Looks like a nice offroad machine.

bump anyone know?

It probably can. Just go to a local dealer, ask to look at the 2009 keys and see if the key structure/layout is the same. If so you should be good. Then all you need to do is get the new key blank, give the parts counter the code off your original keys and have a new key made. Or they should be able to look up your key code via your VIN.

They are working pretty good. I'm still happy with the feel. I've got essentially the same bushing setup between the Legacy & Impreza, minus the custom joint on the Impreza, and I can tell a difference between the two transmissions.