Legacy777

I use and like http://www.subarugenuineparts.com http://www.1stsubaru.com & http://www.subaruparts.com are also other sources.

Thanks for the comments Gary.

There is still going to be some play in how things are adjusted even if you align that mark back up. I can't say by how much the alignment will be off, but if you want everything to be exact, you should get an alignment afterwards.

When I do the axles, I'll typically remove the front bolt holding the lower A-arm to the sub-frame. With the removal of that bolt along with the anti-sway bar endlinks, it usually gives you enough room to get the axle out.

Gary, What makes MWE's axles so good? I've seen some comments that they seem to be the "best", but haven't really looked into the details. I've used http://www.cvaxles.com in the past with good success, and they used to be the ones everyone seemed to plug....so just curious why the torch has passed to MWE. Thanks

You may also want to try posting in the Legacy forum on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

bump Anyone able to help.

There is an AT/MT identifier pin on the first gen legacies. Depending on the ECU, you either ground this pin or leave it empty to let the ECU know what type of transmission it's connected to. What year and model Legacy are you using for your donor swap?

Is it the same o-ring or always different o-rings? If it's different o-rings, I'd probably suggest replacing all the o-rings in the system. It's possible you had a bad set or something got in the system to contaminate them. If it's the same o-ring you may have an issue with the piping. I'd suggest they put some flourescent dye in the system so you can more easily find the leaks.

Yes this will work. Hypoid is the type of gear the differential is, hence the name of the gear oil.

If you have the four wire TPS with the incorporated idle switch, they need to be adjusted using the following procedure. Other than that, there is no other adjustments that need to be made. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg

Let us know how it works out for you. I was looking for a MIG welder last year, but decided to wait since I already had a fair amount of projects going on and didn't need something else to occupy mytime I'll probably look into one this summer again.

Also to add.....I have used a couple of the different OBD2 software out there, and that scanmaster software is pretty good stuff. I was just using the free version, so it didn't have all the features enabled, but was pretty good.

I'd recommend using OEM sensors. Yes you can use the OEM sensor from your non-turbo engine. They are the same.

They do not need to be adjusted. The ECU takes a reading at every startup and calibrates that as the throttle closed position.

The lever probably has worn contacts. I've never tried taking one apart. You could try that, but I'd probably recommend trying to find a used turn signal lever from a junk yard.

That "should" work. ELM is just what is used to convert OBD2 to the proper PC data formatting. I bought an ELM323 and from doing my research I found that some of the earlier OBD2 subarus didn't quite have all the data that the newer ones do. However I was able to get my 1997 Impreza to work, so I would think your 98 legacy should be alright.

That place looks alright....probably would be cheaper than the dealer.

It almost sounds like a ground issue. You may have some bare wire somewhere in the lift gate that is touching metal, grounding out and causing the light to be illuminated. You're probably going to have to do some troubleshooting to narrow down the problem.

Where in Florida are you located? I'd suggest trying to see if there are any other WRX owners around you that are technically inclined to take a listen. You may want to check out the regional forums on nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

Plug configuration is not the same.

When did it first start giving you issues with the idle?

I think this blurb is often what gets missed: "Always insure that the new bearing is properly packed with suitable wheel bearing grease. The grease the bearing is shipped with is not sufficient."

If you don't find any answers here, you may want to ask over on NASIOC, http://forums.nasioc.com/forums as there are more members over there. There's a few OK people in the TX regional forums that may be able to help, that or the midwest regional forums.

I had thought there may be some things the EJ22 has that the EJ18 doesn't. That's where you're going to run into your biggest issue. As long as the ECU pins are the same, and can be swapped between connectors, it should work in theory.