Legacy777

You may get a clunking noise, and may cause for irradic handling behavior.

The legacy should be the same as the 05 info. The impreza has the 4-pot & 2-pot's for the WRX. The rest should be same.

I think overseas there may have been a carb EJ series motor, but in the US there were no carb EJ series motors. If you could find something overseas, that may work. Regarding the electronic timing. You should be able to use the stock crank & cam sensors and tie that back to a stand alone ignition system to handle timing.

No I don't think they'll work, but hopefully someone else can confirm or deny that.

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I've got a lot of that info in my brake math spreadsheet. Go to the brake data tab. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/techinfo/brakemath.xls

What y pipe are you referring to? Any chance of taking a picture?

Your speedo cable probably needs to be greased, or the speedo cable base is on its way out, and needs to be replaced. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg

The factory manuals have a unique procedure for torquing heads. I believe this is primarily due to using new bolts every time. I did not use new bolts when I rebuilt my ej22t, and that recommendation was from a prominent Subaru engine builder. Here are instructions for the ej22. They should be the same/similar. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Heads1.jpg http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Heads2.jpg

I would second Shawn's advice. You're better off just getting a stand alone reader. There is an OBD2 interface reader you have to buy and cable, and then you need software. Some software is free, but very limited in what it can do.

Yes, you need to remove the hood scoop blank.

What's blue book value on it? If it was regularly maintained, that's the key. You do the routine maintenance on subarus and they last a long time. I would like to know what was included in the maintenance. Something that typically gets overlooked is changing the AT fluid. Make sure that was done. Beyond that, make sure fluids were changed, water pump replaced at some point, timing belt done, etc.

Can you provide more information on your swap, what you swapped into what... The ECU needs to see the speed sensor, that is why you're getting that code.

How big is it? I'd be happy to host it on my server, and can give you ftp access to upload it. let me know.

It may be the ECU trying to keep you from boosting while the engine is cold. The solenoid's don't typically go out. Can you describe the symptoms a little better. Just sitting at 3krpms doesn't sound normal.

You've got some sort of idle issue. I'd start by checking to make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. You may need to clean/replace the IAC valve. Can you describe any other symptoms the engine may have. How does the engine run?

How long has it been doing this? Did it just happen?

On the 5MT's it really doesn't do much, however on the auto's is does.

Might be the coolant temp sensor. They are relatively cheap to replace. Around $20 $25

Sorry for the late chiming in. I've been traveling all week for work. Personally, I'd buy a used rack, put new boots & tie rods on it, and put it in. As for the axles, yeah some of the parts store axles are crap. I have not used MWE, but have read good things. I have used http://www.cvaxles.com with pretty good success. What part of town are you in? I could take a look at it if you want. I'm in the galleria area, and should be in town this week. Drop a PM or email if you're interested.

The struts don't lower & raise the ride height. I'd strongly recommend KYB GR2 struts as replacement struts for the first gen legacies. They are leaps and bounds better than the monroe struts.

That's not too bad a price. I'd suggest checking out http://www.legacygt.com/forums Someone there may have heard of them.

Bump. Anybody have any info to help him out?