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Everything posted by Legacy777
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I have been thinking about getting something for a little while. I didn't have too much room to work with since I'm living in the city, but wanted to clear out some of the misc crap/clutter in the garage. I wanted something about 4' x 3'. I looked at a couple, and the Suncast GS4000 seemed to fit the bill. I special ordered it from Lowes. I think it was around $219 or something, pretty reasonable. You can put shelving in it, and it snaps together very easily. The patio area I put it slopes away from the house 1" per 48". So I ended up making some big shims out of 4x4's and mounted the base of the shed to the 4x4's and piece of plywood. Sawzall didn't work too well cutting the 4x4. I needed a bandsaw, but just made two cuts on either side with a skillsaw. I also decided to bolt the shed to the wall since we get those pesky hurricanes every now and then in Houston. I've got four 1/2" lag bolts holding the thing into the wall. I've got a 2x4 sandwiched in there as a spacer which will air movement behind it, and keep moisture from getting out of hand. Anyway, here's some pictures. I need to make some more shelving for it. It took much more time to build the base and secure it to the wall then it did to actually put the shed together http://main.experiencetherave.com/images/storageshed/ It's really helped get some of the clutter out of the garage. I can actually see my walls.
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Couple things to note. When you remove the top bolt that holds the strut to the knuckle, mark it's orientation. It is a camber bolt, so you want to try and get it back in the ball park when you reinstall the new strut. As for orientation of the strut, it'll be obvious. However you want to mark/note the orientation of the upper strut hat (just below the mount). I believe the hats have an arrow that points outward to help with the orientation, but in the event it doesn't or has been corroded over, you should make note of how that top hat sits. An impact gun helps with the removal & installation of that top nut onto the strut shaft.
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That's the thing....I don't like CVT's! I've driven a Nissan with it, and is feels like it's slipping, and not really accelerating that much. I think if you drive like a grandma (no offense meant to hell-raising grandmothers out there ) the CVT could prove to be ok. However if you tend to drive a little like me the more frequent & harder acceleration will probably cause WORSE gas mileage. Just my thoughts.
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Welcome. What exactly are you referring to as vcd? viscous coupling differential? The coupling can be replaced separately from the differential. As for interchanagability between model years, I don't know specific years, but I think the 96 MY would probably work as well, and maybe the 90-94 legacies.
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I just moved all the specific model threads recently posted. I do try to keep an eye on things in this forum.
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Subaru independant shop in East Lansing, MI
Legacy777 replied to shortlid's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Moved to meet & greet to get more exposure. -
You may have air trapped in the system. With the engine cooled off, open the radiator cap and check the coolant level. Add coolant if need, leave the cap off, and start the car. Let it run and warm up with the cap off. Put the cap back on and see how things run. You may have other issues if that doesn't help.