Legacy777

I've been meaning to do this for my 97 OBS for over a year. For the 97 MY, there was a kit that Subaru sold. It was plug & play. I got all the parts from an earlier model impreza. However the throttle cable is too short. I haven't really put much time in trying to find another one, or having a new cable made. Here's two threads, one with picture of the cable, and one with instructions/diagram on adding cruise. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91906&highlight=impreza+cruise http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69560&highlight=impreza+cruise

Welcome to the USMB. You may want to also post in the meet & greet forum.

Here's some pictures http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/enginemounts/ http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/stockmotormounts/ There's a few in here of the sti mounts http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ej22t/24

Welcome to the USMB. What year and model subaru do you have? Is the CEL on? If so, what codes are stored? Based on your description of the problem, I would suspect the MAF sensor.

Yeah the car will not run with the MAF sensor disconnected. The maf sensor itself only should have 3 wires going to it, ground, signal, and voltage supply. The newer MAF's may have an additional wire for temperature, but that's just a guess. The older MAF's found on the first gen legacies had all five pins, and that was due to there being two different MAF sensors. The ECU had a trigger that when grounded would tell the ECU that it is the incorrect MAF sensor for that car.

Well I can't seem to find it in any of the diagrams. I'm sure it's listed in the gasket & seal part numbers, but without pictures, I don't know what is what. You may have to call the dealer on this one.

There is an access plug on the engine bell housing. Remove this plug and you can access the torque converter bolts. Also, if you need to remove the front crank pulley, before you remove the bolts, you can stick a big screwdriver or pry bar into catch the torque converter and keep the engine from turning over.

This is for the 98 Impreza, but should be close if not the same. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/1998_Impreza_ECU_I-O.pdf

Welcome to the USMB. I don't know the specific name for those parts. I looked breifly through the parts catalog I have, and didn't find those things. What year and model subaru do you have?

Thanks for the info. I'll have to see what I can find.

You're welcome. Glad it was an easy fix.

You may have some rubbing issues on the outside of the tire and the chassis. I have 16x7 +45 offset running 205/50 r16 and initially had some minor rubbing on the inner fender trim. I ended up having a shop grind down the metal and putting a new trim piece on. That was a long time ago.

Yes it will physically fit. You may need to swap the engine wiring harness to allow for everything to hook up, or you may need to swap the ECU. Are both engine's the same type of engine? (ej25?) You may also need to swap the rear diff over from the forester if it has a different final drive ratio.

Yeah, my compressor only goes up to about 150 psig. It hangs down around 125 mostly. I've bought an electric grinder I use more now than the air die grinder....so it saves the compressor a little bit. I rebuilt it not too long ago. Replaced the cylinder liner & piston, and valve assembly. It didn't really change things, so I think the old one was fine. It works. I wouldn't mind a little bit bigger and oil lubricated one....but like you said....to get a good one, they're not cheap.

Do you have the manuals? I've got the 97 Impreza factory manuals if you need them. It would have all the wires and colors. Let me know.

When you pull the door panel off, check the locking mechanism rods and see if they are moving freely. I'd also check the ground wire going to the motor. It may have degraded.

I'm not sure if you had found any help on this. My first suggestion would be to reset the ECU and clear the codes, and then see if they immediately come back. If they do, then I'd run down the diagnostic checks they have in the manual for those specific codes. Here's the factory manual which does have pretty good step by step diagnostics for each code or DTC. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/2000+_Legacy_FSM/

Updated the links to your new site.

Do you have any play in the axle stubs coming out of the transmission? It'd be hard to say how long it will last. I'd just drive it until it dies.

I'm sure you can replace the bulbs, but not sure how difficult it is going to be. Removing the manual climate control unit you need to remove the plastic trim around the dash. Probably the same for the automatic one.

Sounds like you may have a loose wire or something behind the glovebox.

I've got a similar Craftsman AC. It works pretty well, however yes it is noisy. GD made some excellent points. One thing to note, the plastic shrouding on the compressor is designed to provide cooling of the compressor and motor. As for the intake, it's just an oiled piece of foam. I don't think doing anything with this will drastically reduce the noise. Some other info. I've had mine since 2003. I do use it pretty well, and it does run quite a bit when using a die grinder. Since owning it, I have replaced the bottom drain valve and the poppet valve on the compressor discharge going into the tank. I do leave it pressured up, and had a slow leak. Finally tracked it down to the pressure gauge. I have also removed the pressure regulator. This helps dramatically to improve the CFM. It made a difference when using my 1/2" impact gun.

I made these two punches/tools to help with the roll pins, especially installing them. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/jointcustom/DCP_4188.JPG http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/jointcustom/DCP_4190.JPG

Welcome to the USMB. Something sounds a little fishy there. Unless they have drastically changed designs on the 2000+ Legacies, it should take less than an hour for a good tech change the sway bar bushing, and certainly not cost that much. Any chance you could try and take a picture of under the car at the suspension to see if we might see something. Also, is that price to replace front and rear sway bar bushings?

Welcome to the USMB. If the canister purge solenoid code is coming up, I'd suggest replacing the solenoid. It can cause some weird things to happen, but I don't know if it'd be causing all the problems. But like I said, start with that first. I'd also suggest checking the codes yourself. It's very easy to do. I've got instructions on my site. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html