Legacy777

Yes, can you please indicate whether you're in the US or not. The 1990 model year was the first year the Legacy was offered in the states, and it was only offerred with multi-point fuel injection. Overseas models did get single point throttle body fuel injection....and I think even a carb model some places.

I'd go the ECU route. Doing the other stuff just sounds like more of a pain. Only concern I can see with the ECU, is if the ECU has a year/date on it, and they try and match that to the VIN records. This is for an auto trans car correct? Other option I suggest would be to just plug in the EGR valve from the old motor and not have it hooked up to anything. Not sure what sort of feedback loop is setup....but if there's not something checking things, you might be able to get away with that..

Are they the things mentioned in this thread? http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105254&highlight=half+moon

See if there is some diagnostic info in the FSM. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1997_Legacy_FSM/

Looks like you have one of the elusive and few MAP based Subaru's.

Did you do anything with the MT/AT identifier pin on the ECU? If you take care of this, idle should be good, and the ECU should recognize that the car now is a MT.

This is very true. The early OBD2 cars are much more limited in what ECU parameters you can change/observe. One thing I would highly recommend is that you verify/test all the wiring prior to the swap, because on more than one occasion I've found the wiring diagrams provided by Subaru to be incorrect.

I'd suggest the whiteline stuff. There are two different ones, the KSR200's and KSR202's. The KSR202's are predominantly the ones that fit the US Subarus. There's a few odd balls in the mix, but that's probably what I would start with.

Can you open the trunk from the outside of the car with the key? If not, it's probably not the cable, but the lock mechanism.

Hmmm....that's odd. Any chance you could snap a picture of your engine and intake setup?

You can try getting one used, or you get one of the firmer mounts for about $66. Part # D1010FE020 https://www.chaplinssubarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html

The MAF sensor is not located near the throttle body. It is near the airbox by the fender. Here's a few pictures http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/mafsensor.jpg http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/mafsensorpins1.jpg

bump. If nobody has the info here, I'd suggest try searching on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

It sounds like just the belt. I'd suggest getting a new belt. Shouldn't be more than $10-$20 at the most.

Yeah, it's gotta be the controls. Here's pics from my resoldering job. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/hvac/

I would say you have a short or a ground issue. The yellow & black connectors you mention, yes should not have anything connected to them. Here's the 1992 Legacy FSM (engine & electrical http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_&_Electrical)/ I've got some other various manuals on my server as well. I'd suggest taking a look at the wiring diagrams and checking all the wiring/pins to the ECU to verify they are still wired/functioning correctly. If you do all that, and still nothing, then I'd suggest replacing the ECU.

Here's my swap write-up. It is covers FWD to AWD, but should give you an idea of what's involved. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

You need to remove the headliner, which usually requires removing the trim around the doors/windows. Once the headliner is out, the sun roof should be all one mechanism to be removed.

Anything's possible, and I'm sure you could most likely swap over the springs. Bumpers probably would work...but might require some tweaking.

Thanks for the pictures. Those old plastic PCV pieces tend to get brittle and crack....no fun.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/vacuum/

I suppose if the relay is shorted out inside it could happen.

Do you have the owner's manual for your car? If so, look in it and determine what your final drive ratio is. You may be able to use a transmission with a different final drive ratio if you swap the rear diff. It's not too big a deal. As for the auto to manual swap, yes it can be done. Here's my write up. Not everything will be applicable to you since I was also swapping from FWD to AWD. However it should give you an idea of what's involved. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

John, Replied to your email. Here's info on how to pull the codes from the ABS computer. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/abs-2E-diagnostics.gif http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/abs_diagnostics.pdf

You've got a lot of questions. I don't think I can give you answers on everything. Regarding the head gaskets, I believe there has been some improvements/changes. I'd suggest talking with one of the local subaru dealership service centers to see if they can clarify that. I haven't heard about the bearing issue. Regarding the transmission. It probably is a bearing. My 97 impreza outback sport has the same symptoms. I'm just going to drive it until something craps out on it. I'd suggest searching over on NASIOC as there are more impreza owners over there that may have experienced similar problems.