Legacy777

bump Anyone driven one of the new CVT subies.

Thanks for the feedback! I definitely agree with you on learning how to set things up but didn't know if the auto set was a gimmick or not.

The beam pattern will be wrong and blind on-coming cars.

Wonder what it will sound like with that gone. Probably better

Out of curiousity, anybody have any experience with the millermatic machines with "Auto-set"? How well does it work to have the machine pick the feed speed & voltage?

This is the problem and how to fix it. Little paper clip works like a charm. http://web.archive.org/web/20030527195051/www.geocities.com/hobiegary/locks.html

Yes it will matter whether it's manual or auto. The ECU's are different, Hitachi vs. JECS, and have different fuel injectors and fuel rails. You need ones from an automatic car.

The only reason it wouldn't fit is if the 2.5 motor has a slightly larger flywheel. I can't say for sure whether it does or does not.

No, you will need an injector from a 1990-1990 AT model Legacy to use. I'd suggest checking out the http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org forum. Someone probably has one they could sell you. Have you done any diagnostic work to verify that the injector is bad? I'd suggest doing that first before replacing. While idling, try pulling the plug on the injector. If the engine doesn't run any differently, then I'd definitely say that injector is bad. If the engine does run worse, I'd suspect the injector may still be ok. If that does happen, I'd suggest replacing the canister purge solenoid and then clear the codes, drive the car and see if the injector code comes back. The #1 cylinder is the front passenger side of the motor. As for the purge valve, I believe that should work.

I had thought they changed it in 2000, which would be the 3rd generation.

If no one replies. You may also want to check http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

That is some interesting data. Thanks for sharing.

I don't know if there's a compatibility chart per say, but there's some threads about various engine compatibilities.

When I did my AWD swap I had a car with rear ABS. The sensor was froze in there as well. I ended up beating it out with a punch from the front side. Here's some pictures, the hub work is near the bottom. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/06/default.htm

It should come out. If it's like the ones on the hood, there will be little clips that snap and hold it in place.

What is pin 4 supposed to be according to the manual? O2 sensors of that error are going to have three wires going to them. One is the sensor signal, one is 12v for the heater, and the other is ground for the heater. Typically, red & black are the heater power and ground. It should be easy to determine those wires. Once you determine that, you can then the voltage on the signal wire.

D1010FE020 is the part # for the 5spd "sti hardened" mount. You can get it for $67 at http://www.subarugenuineparts.com

That tab on the hose side is tied into the coolant lines that go to it. It's a bimetallic strip that opens/closes as coolant temp warms up. It's supposed to help with the cold start warm up.

Is this an Impreza outback sport wagon, or a legacy outback wagon?

bump Anybody able to help out?

05 was a new year, so I'm not sure what may be different from older years. I would guess that the newer 2.5's should work.

The 6 speed mount is different than the 5 speed mount. As for the hardened mounts vs the standard one. It is stiffer and will increase NVH, but in my opinion it's not too bad. It's noticable, but like I said, it's not too bad.

Welcome! Another Houston member. Not too many people on here are in Houston. I'm around the Galleria area myself.

I've tried lysol before and this stuff works better.