Legacy777

Does it always not shift out of first until things warm up, or is it only in colder ambient temperatures?

I've got the same problem. I tried to piece the parts together to put cruise on my 97 OBS a couple years ago. The main hurdle was that the cable was too short. It just hasn't been at the top of my priority list, but I really need to see if I can find a shop that will make a cable that is 1" longer. I've got an ECU, but don't know where it is at the moment. I believe it was out of a 94 Impreza though. I'm not sure why any MT cruise ECU wouldn't work....

You're welcome.

I'd second that recommendation as well!

On turbo motors, the bypass valve needs to be fitted somewhere on the piping between the discharge side of turbo and throttle plate/body. For this instance, it's on the intercooler. It needs to be piped back to the piping before the compressor side of the turbo. The bypass valve vents the pressurized air that gets trapped in the intercooler/piping when the throttle plate snaps shut. This keeps the turbo compressor from going into surge and potentially flowing backwards. The vacuum source on the bypass valve needs to be hooked up to a port on the intake manifold. Hope that helps.

The sleeve is meant to help a worn transmission snout. The TOB ride/slides along the snout of the transmission. If it gets heavily grooved or worn, that can create issues with the TOB. This sleeve/kit is meant to put a new wearing surface (sleeve) over the transmission snout and provides a "new" surface for the slightly larger TOB to ride upon. When your mechanic put everything back together, I'm assuming he greased all the joints and pivot points of the clutch fork real well? I think a pilot bearing would give you a different noise/issue if that was the culprit.

I've read that people have replaced it, but I'm still running the old style without any issues. I'm sure others are too.

Do you know what kind of spark plugs were put in? It may not be a bad idea to pull the plugs to look at them and see how they are wearing and if the gap may need to be adjusted.

I'm not sure what that is, but hopefully someone else can help you out.

Welcome to the USMB Chris. Does the current owner have any service records for it? Besides the items you mentioned, (which I don't have much direct experience with on that particular model/year) the automatic transmissions can give you issues if the fluid has not been changed regularly. I'd suggest checking it over, or bringing it to a mechanic to check over if you're serious on purchasing it.

Newer Subaru seats will work. I've got a set of 2002 WRX seats in my 97 Impreza outback sport.

It's probably behind inside the control unit.

Yeah, there's probably a relay or fuse. Do you happen to have a wiring diagram? If not, maybe someone on here may.

What happens if you jack up that corner and spin the tire by hand? Do you hear the noise?

So is the problem that the lever/door does not stay put where you set it. Or does the selector not indicate the correct position for what the door is positioned for? If the issue is the first, there's probably a screw or nut to tighten that will increase the resistance on the door movement, or keep the selector lever from moving.

The main issue you run into with swapping motors in the newer cars is that they are OBD2. So you need to utilize the sensors meant for the OBD2 ECU. You may be able to utilize the long or short block, but I don't think things will be a direct plug & play swap.

Yeah I would probably say it's an EGR issue. 22611-AC830 has been superceeded by 22611-AC831. So there's really only two ECU's. Since they've done that, 30 & 31 were pretty much the same.

Mick, I could get a measurement from my 97 Impreza OBS if that would help? If so, let me know.

This is what happens when one of those ball bearings gets lodged in the race and locks up.... http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/shreddedtbelt/

I'd definitely would suggest the coolant temp sensor. Other thing to check is the idle air control valve. I believe on your motor it is a plunger type valve on the throttle body. They can sometimes get gunked up, and not flow the appropriate amount of air. You can remove it and clean the carbon/oil build up from it. That may help. When you reinstall it and first start up the car, the rpms may race until the IAC valve has a chance to reset it's base position. Regarding the coil pack, the test procedure and resistance values should be in the factory manual on my server. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/2000+_Legacy_FSM/ A quick and easy method to test whether the coil pack has any cracks is at night with the engine running, use a spray bottle that sprays a fine mist, and spray the coil pack. Look for any sparks or arching.

You may need to slot (cut a larger hole) in the strut where the camber bolt goes. This will give you a little more room to move the strut to give you the negative camber you want. I wouldn't cut too large a hole, just do a little bit at a time.

If you don't find an answer here, you may want to ask in the regional forums on NASIOC, http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

I've heard of this issue on the 1st gen legacies. There's a check valve that keeps the fluid from draining out of the torque converter. Over time that wears out and the fluid drains out when the car sits for a while. I don't know however where exactly that check valve is located.

Here's a pic of the driver's side lower dash panel. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

The fact you have misfire codes all the time should be an indication of something. Are they the only codes that are currently stored? Or is the O2 sensor also a current code? Bank 1, sensor 1 is the front O2 sensor. Bank 1, sensor 2 should be the rear O2 sensor. If you have an active code for the O2 sensor, I'd suggest replacing it. However I don't think it is going to be your problem. Why did you replace the ignition coil? You mention it is not OEM. What happens if you come to a stop light or stop sign, quickly move the gear shifter from gear into neutral and then let off of the clutch? I just can't see any real correlation with stalling and depressing the clutch. As mentioned, I'd probably go back to the OEM coil.