Legacy777

Based on what I can see in the parts book, it looks like it's the port for vacuum reference for the EGR valve/piping. If you don't have EGR, just cap it.

Has the CEL come on in your 99 OBS? Did you have the codes read? If not, I suggest you do that before replacing any parts. If you want to confirm that it is the O2 sensor, you can try swapping O2 sensors like you mentioned, and/or resetting the ECU and seeing if the CEL comes right back.

I'm assuming you're talking about the gasket between the engine and exhaust header, correct? I have not had any problems with the stock Subaru gaskets.

I'm assuming the compressor is on for those measurments? How many cans (oz) of 134a did you put in? Are the manifold valves closed on the gauges?

Hi Artie, Can you describe the miss you are experiencing a little more. Does it happen at a specific rpm or engine load? Does the miss go away when you turn off the AC? What diagnostics have you done to determine it's missing on one or more cylinders? What repairs did you make the AC system? Is that the only work you performed?

Welcome to the USMB. Unless you have a really bad leak or gasket blow out, it may be difficult to determine the actual spot where the leak occurred. I had a small leak in my head gasket on my ej22t under boost, and I really didn't see any obvious spots on the gasket. So, yes it is possible.

You will likely have to get the software from Subaru. The older select monitors have cartridges for the different models. Sounds like the model specific data is done with software now.

It might be clogged fuel filter or a plugged fuel pick-up sock.

Welcome to the USMB. Not sure if you have found an answer, but based on this post: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=206725 It sounds like you may be able to get a plug and play harness directly from Subaru.

Welcome to the USMB. The control unit gets it's inputs from the door latch switches. Have you downloaded the diagrams from my site? If not, you may want to give them a shot to help diagnosis things. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/auto_seatbelt_wiring_diag1.jpg http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/auto_seatbelt_wiring_diag2.jpg http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag1.jpg http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag2.jpg http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag3.jpg

I wouldn't say it's a normal occurance. Did the AT oil temp warning light come on? How do you know you were overheating your transmission?

Welcome to the USMB. I have my doubts the nav discs would be covered under warranty, but you could give it a try. As for upgrading, I would see if there's any specific updates/fixes for the new version, or if it's just updated road data/maps.

The torque for the flywheel bolts to the crank shaft should be 51-55 ft-lbs.

Unless Subaru went to something funky, it should be standard bolts. Any chance you can snap a picture?

Nice write-up. Thanks for sharing.

I'm pretty sure the 96 had the speed sensor on the transmission. If that is the case, I would probably start there. If you can find a used one, or if they're not much money, I'd probably replace your existing one. If it's not the sensor, it could be the wiring from the sensor to the ECU.

Your best bet is to buy a power door actuator like this and mount it in the driver's door so it actuates (unlocks/locks) all the doors. http://www.amazon.com/HIGH-POWER-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR/dp/B0002KR9PW

Just a note regarding the coolant temp sensor. They may test ok with a multimeter but still may not be good. The sensors are around $20 at the various only subaru dealerships, so most of the time it's usually a good idea to just replace it if there's any doubt it may be bad.

Sounds like a fuel pump. If the wiring looks ok, I'd probably start there.

The motor is a stepper motor, and there may be a spot where carbon has built up, and that is the spot the ECU adjusts the IAC valve to when the AC is on.

Is this an automatic or manual trans? If it's an auto, use 80w90 GL 5 rated gear oil. The filler is on the passenger side of the trans. If it's a manual, use 75w90 GL 5 rated gear oil.

I'd suggest running some dry gas and replacing the fuel filter as a start.

I would recommend getting the rear sensor working and tied into the ECU. I do not believe the wiring for the front and rear sensor are next to each other. I'd have to follow the wiring of the rear sensor to see, but I'm pretty sure it ties in at a different spot. This may help... http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/1997_Impreza_FSM.zip

I believe the IAC valve is on the throttle body. It is a plunger type setup. They can sometimes get gummed/carbon'ed up. I would try removing the valve and cleaning it up and the hole up with brake cleaner. If you move the plunger around when cleaning, when you first start the car up the rpms will likely race until the plunger gets adjusted properly. I'd start there and see what happens.

The only reason I could see it wouldn't work is if it had the oil cooler, but if doesn't I don't see why you couldn't use that side.