Legacy777

I don't think it should matter that they are not made in Japan. You might check out tirerack to see if there are any comments specifically aimed at tires that were not made in Japan.

It's likely 2" or 2-1/4". I can't say for sure, but it's likely one of those.

I'm guessing it's an AWD trans? If so, does it still chirp if you put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder?

What year and model Subaru do you have?

I would agree about finding a local graphics company to make you decals. Most places can make vinyl stickers from an image you find on the internet. So if you can't find that decal part number, I'd look into a local graphics company.

Yeah it is very common for the end tanks to crack there due to the hot coolant coming out of the engine and hitting the plastic end tank. I replaced my radiator a couple years back due to the same problem.

Welcome to the USMB. Unfortunately, you are correct. The clip must be installed and snapped into the pressure plate prior to installing the engine and trans. The throw out bearing should snap into the clip when it is installed on the pressure plate. Hope that helps clarify things.

I don't have any direct experience with them. However, have you looked at the reviews on tire rack or discount tires? They are usually pretty good.

Bry, I've got a 97 Impreza Outback Sport and yes the AC compressor clutch is noticable. It's normal. The AC systems do have expansion valves and function the same way as others. However, like I mentioned, I think some manufacturers use less expensive components and control systems than others, which causes more noticable cycling and temperature swings.

Interesting design...

For the most part it sounds like your AC system is working properly. Your refrigerent charge may be off a little bit, but without a full set of gauges to determine pressures and temps, it's a little hard to say. The reason your compressor is cycling when on recirc is because the incoming air is already "sufficiently" cool and tells the thermo switch to cut off the compressor. When the temp increases, compressors kicks back on, and the cycle repeats. If the incoming air is always warm, then the thermo switch doesn't kick off. What I have found is that some cars don't have as good of a control system and as a result the temperature swings between when the compressor kicks off and on are greater. Additionally, compressor design will affect this as well. The older legacies 90-94 had a variable geometry compressor. So instead of cycling, they would alter the compression ratio internal and allow for less refrigerent to flow to the evaporator which would help moderate temperatures. IMO, this system is superior in terms of keeping a more constant temperature. The downside is the compressors tend to be more complex and may have a more likely chance of failure. Not sure if I answered your question....if not let me know.

Dan, The problem is likely the speed sensor if the 95 legacy has the electronic speed sensor. If it still has the cable going from the transmission to the gauge cluster, the culprit is likely the base piece that connects to the transmission. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg

Where did you solder the wire? Soldered joints aren't the greatest in automobiles due to vibration. Have you tested the wire from the trans computer to the connector to make sure it has good continuity?

Welcome to the USMB. You will likely have to get the thermister from the subaru dealer. You may also be able to find one used from someone either on here or the legacycentral bbs who has a parts car. Or if you have a junkyard near you, you may want to see if they have any legacies you could scavenge. I'd suggest checking out the legacycentral bbs, as there's a lot of stuff over there, and likely a member who has a spare car they could snag the thermister from. http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org

Welcome. Can you describe the "honk" a little more. I think you're probably on target for it being the bypass valve. You can remove it and blow through it and see if it leaks. I'd recommend staying with a full recirculating bypass valve over a vent to atmosphere valve.

Jeremy, The shifter not moving out of park without pushing the button at the top is a result of shift lock system not functioning correctly. Typically, the solenoid below the shifter assembly may be bad and not releasing the shifter. The other possibility is that brake switch is bad. I'd suggest testing the solenoid. It should click when you depress the brake pedal. You can apply 12v to one lead of the solenoid and a ground wire to the other lead going to the solenoid, and it will engage the solenoid. If the solenoid doesn't engage, then you know it's bad and needs to be replaced. As for the clunking, it's kind of hard to diagnose without a little more information. Can you tell where the noise is coming from?

To confirm your thoughts, it does sound like the alternator. As for your question.....I personally would not drive the car to Albany. Do anything you can to either replace the alternator, or borrow someone else's car to make the drive.

Welcome the USMB. What year and model Subaru is the 2.5 in? How much oil was in the plug hole? Is this the DOHC or SOHC 2.5?

Just an off the wall question, but how many cans or how much R134a did you charge the system with? From what you are saying it sounds like the problem mainly occurs under load. Is that a correct assessment?

I too would recommend a directly replacement O2 sensor vs. the splice ones. On my 97 Impreza I can replace the O2 sensor with a little maneuvering from under the car. It's not easy, but can be done.

You may want to try another dealer, because I know for a fact you get a trailer hitch for the Outback. They are very similar vehicles, so I don't see why you couldn't use a harness that was made for the Outback. I don't think it was available in 2008, but does your Legacy have the CVT transmission?

Welcome to the USMB. Depending on where you are in Tennessee, you may try calling Teague's Auto, http://boxer4racing.com. They're near the Asheville, NC area and may be able to provide you with some suggestions or if they're close enough, may be an option.

Any pictures? That might help in identifying the exact model.

Based on what I can see in the parts book, it looks like it's the port for vacuum reference for the EGR valve/piping. If you don't have EGR, just cap it.

Has the CEL come on in your 99 OBS? Did you have the codes read? If not, I suggest you do that before replacing any parts. If you want to confirm that it is the O2 sensor, you can try swapping O2 sensors like you mentioned, and/or resetting the ECU and seeing if the CEL comes right back.