Legacy777

Welcome to the USMB. I've got the entire manual for the overseas Legacy/Liberty. The valve body info should be the same. Section 3 is what has all the trans info. Download that and see if it may have the info you need. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1992_Liberty_FSM_-_FULL/

I glanced through the factory manual and didn't see any indication there was power up there, however there still may be something up there. At the least, there may be power over by the passenger side vanity mirror that you may be able to hook up to. You can d/l the manual from me if you'd like to look into it a little more. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1997_Legacy_FSM/

The clicking is normal when connecting the green diagnostic connectors. The ECU cycles the relays so it can be determined if they are working correctly.

Welcome to the USMB. I'll give you my take on some of the different bulbs out there. The bluish light output bulbs have gotten pretty popular over the past years, and you have the major bulb manufacturers making them. The issue with these bulbs is that most have some form of coating on the bulb glass to get the color. This coating will reduce the overall light output from the bulb by filtering a specific wavelength from light spectrum to get the bluish output. So you actually get less light output from the same wattage bulb. I would really recommend just getting a good standard bulb. Osram Sylvania make good bulbs. I do believe they do make a bluish tint bulb if you're dead set on one. I'd recommend checking out this website for a lot more details on lighting. http://danielsternlighting.com/

What year is your legacy?

I believe this is the part # for the clamp. 72026KA040 You may want to have your local subaru dealer confirm that. The image in the parts book I have is pretty small.

It would likely not start.

Here's pics of the cable clip. You can even kind of see on mine that it's starting to work itself out of the slot. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/imprezahvaccable/

In the states, there can be some difference as to whether they're liquid filled mounts or not....that was primarily due for engine noise damping. However they serve the same purpose and should be interchangable.

I'll send myself a reminder to try and get some pictures this afternoon.

The cycling will likely be based primarily on temperature. You've got the temperature probe in the evaporator that monitors the temperature leaving the evaporator. Since the inlet temp is low, the control unit will switch the compressor off to keep it from icing up. As a test, if you move the selector to recirc, the inlet air should be warmer, and the compressor will likely have a longer running cycle. However, that's probably not the best scenario for defrosting though.

What car is it on? If it's on a Legacy where the AC normally comes on with defrost, then yes the AC compressor will likely still come on even in cold temps, even if just for a few moments.

It may be an issue with the actual HVAC control unit. They are known for bad solder joints that crack and cause intermittant problems. On my car, the mode/door selector wouldn't work. I ended up taking apart the HVAC control unit and soldering the cracked solder joints. Here's my post with pictures and information. http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1142

How old/worn was the flywheel on the EJ20? Was it a stock flywheel or aftermarket? If aftermarket, is a standard weight or lightweight flywheel?

Myself and some others have collected some similar strut information from KYB. http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17352 We found that there's some difference between the 90-91 front struts and the 92-94 front struts from KYB. The spring perch mount is different and causes a "jacked up" look in the front.

Yes it does. The cable for the knob which allows you to adjust where the air blows connects to the air control box up under the dash in the driver's foot well. There is a clip that holds the cable in place so the mode selector door can move. That clip has popped out of its spot, so the cable is just moving freely. The clip needs to be put back in its spot and things should be fine. This happened on my 97 impreza, and I just bent the tab out a little bit so it would grab into the plastic housing better. I don't have any pictures, but if you can't find it, I could try and take some pictures.

You do NOT need to have the engine running to pull any stored codes with the black connectors. You only need to have the key in the "ON" position.

Personally, I probably wouldn't mess with the alternator at this time if it's working ok. I haven't taken apart an alternator, so I'm not sure if the bearings require a press or any special tools.

I'm guessing that the heater control is a push button type setup correct? If so, the problem is likely with the electronic HVAC control unit. There's no vacuum actuation with the HVAC unit. The first gen legacies had an issue where solder joints would crack over time and you would get intermittant issues where the HVAC buttons would not work. I ended up taking apart the HVAC unit, found the cracked solder joints and resolderd them. Here's my thread with some more info and pictures. http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1142 I do not know if the 2nd gen legacies had issues with the solder joints like the first gen. So it may be that or something else wrong with the HVAC control unit. Hopefully someone else will chime in that may have experienced something similar.

From what you described, it sounds like it's the latch mechanism in the door with the switch. I doubt it's anything in the dash since if you pull the door towards you the light goes off. When the CEL does flash on for a few seconds, have you tried pulling the codes with the black read memory connectors? If the CEL comes on, there should be a code stored.

I don't see how it will be different in terms of size, length, etc. Where it might be different is in its construction. It may be built to go 100,000 miles between change intervals, where most of the ej22 belts are designed for 60,000 change intervals. The exception to this is california spec belts, which I believe are also 100,000 mile change intervals.

I'd suggest going to a local autoparts store, autozone, advance auto, etc and have them pull the code from the ECU. That will tell you what the problem is and narrow down what needs to be fixed.

I'd say you have some sort of electrical issue either with the crank/cam sensors or possibly the MAF since you're getting a code. When you spliced the cam & crank sensors, did you put all the wiring back the way it was before?

Welcome to the USMB. When it was put on the dyno, was the dyno a FWD or AWD dyno? If it was a FWD dyno only, was the FWD fuse installed? If not, that's what caused the light to go on. Hopefully the TCU figured out what was happening and protected the duty c & rear clutch packs from getting messed up. When it snows, try going to a parking lot and doing donuts to make sure the AWD is still working properly. For the future, if you have to have the car put on the dyno, you need to install a fuse in the FWD fuse holder, OR tell the emissions place the car is AWD and it can not be put on a FWD dyno.

You will need to remove the front grille & lights. There are clamps under them which hold on the bumper skin. Additionally there are bolts underneath that hold on the bottom of the bumper. There are two nuts that connect the bumper to the front fenders. To get at these, you'll need to remove the front wheel liners. They're a pain to get to, but that's likely what's keeping the bumper on for you.