Legacy777

I can't access the video at work due to the firewall, but are you sure it's a grinding noise vs. a rattle? Does it occur all the time or only some times? Does it occur while driving and is related to engine rpm?

Yes that trim can be replaced. If you want to PM or post your VIN I can look up the correct part #. Your local Subaru dealer can also probably help if you'd prefer not to post your VIN.

Did the car smoke before you performed the work on it? Maybe I missed that in your post.

I moved your thread to the new gen forum. It should get some more attention there.

Good deal!

Well if the new stalk didn't help, it could be an issue with the wiring. Like I mentioned, the wiring for the turn signals go through the hazard button, so if the turn signals come on with the hazards, there's an issue between there and turn signal stalk...or the turn signal stalk you got is bad. You can d/l the factory service manual with wiring diagrams from me to do some more troubleshooting. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1995_Legacy_FSM/

The thing right in the middle of this pic is the IAC valve. You can see the main metal body and the electro magnet portion on top of it. The electro magnet portion is held down by two screws and allows you to rotate it. By doing this you're changing the "default" position of the valve, and that may help your idle. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2470.JPG

You may want to talk with Delta, I seem to recall that the 220 designation was only for the turbo legacy cams. The non-turbo legacy cams had a different designation like 205 or something like that.

The wiring for the turn signals/flashers are routed through the hazard button. So if that button is bad or not working properly, then the turn signals may not work. Did you buy a new flasher button or relay from autozone?

Was the 95 ej22 a single or dual exhaust port motor? I'm assuming the ej22 in your 98 was a single exhaust port motor? Is your 98 an AT or MT, and did the 95 engine come out of an AT or MT? There were some differences between the MT & AT. I believe certain AT motors had EGR. Assuming the idle is good, you can probably just rotate the electro magnet portion on top of the IAC valve to bump the idle a tad. It's not something I usually recommend, but if everything else is good, I'm not sure there's going to be another option.

The problem is most likely the turn signal stalk. From what I have seen from other posts, they can be replaced, and that should fix your problem.

Where did the transplanted ej22 come out of?

That was a damn good read!

Welcome to the USMB. Did you buy the nav unit from a dealer or some place else? Do you know if the nav unit replaces the current radio setup or is it an additional item? I'm assuming this is for your 2011 STi? Hopefully others can chime in with any experience they have. You may also want to check out http://forums.nasioc.com/forums There's a lot more STi owners over there.

I've got friends who have had the body style before and have been happy. I agree, the body style after that you're looking for is nice and has good features. Hopefully someone can give you some more feedback. You may also want to check out http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin

If it can't be repaired, your best bet is to get a new one from the dealer. If you can find a used one, I would suspect it could be programmed to your car. I just picked up an 06 Legacy and it does not have any keyless remotes, so I will be venturing down this path to get new ones, once I get the car shipped to me.

It sounds like the issue may be in the wiring itself, and may be related to worn/scraped insulation on the wire for that particular sensor. This is causing the overall circuit resistance to be outside of normal parameters and throw a code. So I'd try and focus on the wiring itself, and narrow down where the problem is. Try moving it around and see if that changes the resistance when using a multi-meter.

Good info in these posts Frank! I was over a refined products terminal in Alabama & Mississippi for a little while, and everything you're saying is dead on. Regarding the ethanol raising the octane values, I think premium will still likely be higher since most of the refineries in certain areas are setup to put out premium at the specified octane spec. The 87 & 89 grades will likely be adjusted with the blending of sub-grade (85-86 octane) gasoline to hit the final octane value. To expand on what Frank mentioned regarding varying additive amounts, they do vary, and can vary even among the branded gasoline. Typically the branded gas will get more additive for premium when compared to the unbranded gas. Here's some rough numbers for what we had in the terminals I was over. Generic (unbranded) got the same additive amounts between all grades of gasoline. Chevron got the same additive amounts between all grades of gasoline. Exxon's premium got about 10% more additive than the regular or mid-grade gasoline. Motiva's (Shell) premium got about 54% more additive than the regular or mid-grade gasoline! These numbers are several years old, and may have changed now, but like I mentioned, the additive treat rates vary quite a bit, even among the branded gas.

Welcome to the USMB. It sounds like you may have an electrical short somewhere. Unless you're good with wiring, I'd probably suggest taking it to someone that can troubleshoot the problem. You could try removing certain fuses one at a time and see if that changes anything. That would help you narrow down the problem to a certain circuit/area.

John, I don't believe there is any physical difference between the mounts that would keep you from using one or the other. There may be some difference in the mount material stiffness. Any chance you can take a pic of the H6 trans mount? I just can't see it being any different than the standard AWD AT mount.

Can you be a little more specific on the noise? Is it vehicle speed dependent and when exactly does it occur (I couldn't really follow your post when describing when it occurs).

I never got the pictures, so you may want to pm/email the original poster to see if he can send them to you.

Welcome to the USMB. My recommendation is you contact Subaru directly through their customer service department phone number. Since your extended warranty is coming up, I would push Subaru to resolve the issue, even if it goes past your warranty expiration since you have records indicating the problem occurred previously and was not fully rectified.

Not sure if you got this resolved, but can I ask what you're trying to do? Are you swapping an H6 alternator onto another engine?

It kind of looks like it's a tooth off for the intake cam...