Legacy777

Welcome! Another Houston member. Not too many people on here are in Houston. I'm around the Galleria area myself.

I've tried lysol before and this stuff works better.

Welcome to the USMB. The first gen legacies can be kind of cranky with certain cooling system items. Was the thermostat you put in the car a subaru thermostat? If it was anything but a subaru thermostat, you will have problems. Don't ask me why, but it's been pretty well documented on some of the forums that thermostats other than subaru thermostats can cause you issues. So that's the first thing I would suggest replacing if you don't already have a subaru thermostat. Second, there is a little bleeder screw on the top side of the radiator on the passenger side. You need to remove this screw to properly bleed the air from the cooling system. Remove the bleeder screw, fill the radiator, start the engine, add coolant as necessary until it starts overflowing from the bleeder screw. Put the bleeder screw back in, and top off coolant at the main cap, and put the cap back on. I'd try those things first before messing with head gaskets. You should have heat. I don't think head gaskets are going to cause you to not have heat immediately unless the leak is very bad, but in which case the car would probably not run very well. I'd also suggest checking out http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org if you haven't already found it.

There's some HVAC/evaporator cleaner I've used for mildew and other stuff. Works very well. I'll usually drop the blower motor and then spray the evap real good. Interdynamics makes it, it's called pure air. May want to try that as well as checking out the evap.

The IAC on these motors are a little plunger type thing. You can just remove it and clean the carbon and other gunk off it. Clean the area around the TB that you removed it from. If you move the plunger around, when you first start the car the rpms will probably rev up until the stepper motor resets itself to maintain the proper idle speed.

That seems pretty reasonable IMO....

You talking about the clutch fork? There's going to be a little play, but I don't think there should be a lot. If there's a lot, one of the clips that holds the clutch fork onto the throw out bearing may have come loose.

What are you referring to ask backing plate? The anti rattle shims? Some of the new pads have anti rattle shims/pads built onto the pads. Personally, I find those damn anti-rattle shims cause more noise then they're supposed to fix. So I usually don't run them, and will just use some CRC disc brake quieter on the back of the pads where the caliper & pads touch.

I'd check the brake pads and also the axles to make sure nothing is rubbing.

That's what the idle should be 700-750. If the AC is on, it should be around 800. The tach on the dash really isn't going to give you a good way to measure that small of a difference in the RPM.

What year legacy? The 90-94 Legacies have two different makes, hitachi & diamond, but both are interchangable.

If the trigger pattern is different, then I'd probably say no to the t-belt stuff.

Can you pull and swap the two sensors, or is the connection inside the transmission preventing you from doing that?

There is a weap hole on the pump, which would allow coolant to drip out through the seal area. Look for coolant around the pump area

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Welcome to the USMB. Unfortunately, no there's not a site to my knowledge where you can type in the serial numbers. Are the engines you're looking at US engines or from overseas?

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I am pretty anal retentive about clean tools.....and what I will typically do, depending on the level of gunk on them, is clean them with brake cleaner first, and then do a final wipe down with a glass/all surface cleaner. As I mentioned, I probably go way beyond what "normal" people do, but that's me. I hate picking up a slimey grease tool that wasn't cleaned from the time before. Only exception is when I've got a several day project going on, I may not clean the tools. Brake cleaner is probably going to work the best for you to remove the power steering fluid.

Yeah I'd like to see some before and after pictures when you get a chance.

I would include the connector so both fans operate together.

I have not cut one open, but when I was looking at replacing mine, I received that information from one the local Subaru dealerships and another subaru shop I was talking with. The purpose of the add on filter kit was to catch debris or what not from manufacturering. By all means, if you want to cut one open, I'd be curious as well to see what's inside.

The AC short, or sub fan connector causes both fans to operate together on AC equipped cars. This is the desired operation. I am pretty sure that the fans are operating at high speed all the time. Here's the crazy AC wiring diagram for the fans http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ACwiringdiag.jpg And the regular fan diagram http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/1992_legacy_radiator_fan_wiring_diagram.pdf Regarding the temp sensor. There are two temp sensors (at least on the 90-94 Legacies) The one-wire sensor goes to the dash gauge, while the two wire sensor goes to the ECU. Both wires of the two-wire sensor need to go back to the ECU. One wire is the 5v reference voltage, and the other is the signal coming back to the ECU.

You can buy the whole external filter kit for like $20, which includes the filter. Yes, I know it's cheaper than buying just the filter. Go figure. That's what I did when I replaced the filter, just bought a whole kit. BTW, that external filter, is mainly just a screen, and does not have any filter type paper in there. If you want to add a cooler, I'd suggest routing the lines from the transmission, to the external cooler, and then into the radiator cooler, and back to the transmission. This will keep the trans fluid temp moderated in cold climates, and should eliminate the need for a thermostat to be installed.

Yeah, I believe your correct. So the ECU should be in the passenger footwell.