Legacy777

Here's a pic of the MAF sensor (minus the stock airbox) Here's a pic of the ECU

Good to hear that helped.

Good deal

That should work. Not sure if it's the best, but it will work.

What are the stock sized tires? Those seem a little big, and you may have some rubbing issues.

I'd say you still have air in the system, and/or it's low on coolant. Don't know if the 97 MY has the little vent screw on the passenger side of the radiator. But if it does, that needs to be removed to fully bleed the air from the system. Look at the very top of the radiator on the passenger side and see if there is a screw/fitting that can be removed.

Probably won't show up as a code. However you may be able to view runtime data and look at the knock information. You may have got some bad gas, and the ECU has pulled timing in that area. You could try resetting the ECU. I get some similar things happening to my 97 OBS, and it seems to go away when I reset the ECU via the scan tool.

Yeah I'd suggest looking at the MAF sensor as well. What parts have already been replaced?

You don't need to bleed them down. They'll be fine.

Welcome to the USMB. You may want to also post this question over in the new gen forum as well.

What size in the MC bore? If you up the size on the caliper pistons or number of pistons, that can cause excessive pedal travel. But that can sometimes be confused with air in the brake lines. If the pedal is firm, but just takes an extra long time to travel, then that could be due to an undersized MC. I had this issue when putting WRX brakes on my Legacy. I upgraded from the 1" bore MC to 1-1/16" bore MC. There's some info about the pedal travel calcs in my brake calc spreadsheet. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/techinfo/brakemath.xls

Gary should be correct. The newer cars 95+ have the ECU in the passenger footwell area.

That or the dealership didn't properly diagnose the original problem. The turbo dying was a symptom not the problem.....

I don't have any specific recommendations on a remote start, but I will say that you will probably find shops hesitant to install a remote start on a MT vehicle. If you were to get one installed it would need to be tied into the neutral switch, and be setup to defeat the clutch interlock system. Not saying it can't be done, but it's one of those things that some shops get a little leary about since there's some possible liability if something is tampered with and the car started in gear. Just some food for thought.

Exactly. Just because it bolts on, doesn't mean it's correct.

It's normal. The noise is coming from the IAC valve. It's a rotary valve that oscillates back and forth to control airflow into the engine.

That offset is a little low. I would suggest trying to find something with at least +45mm offset.

As GD mentioned there are some differences between the 90-94 Legacies. The ECU is in the same location, but the main difference is in the wiring and ECU type. So again, as GD suggested, it would be best to get the wiring for the same year as the engine. As for removing the harness, you will need to remove the dash to get at everything. You'll most likely want to trim down the harness to just have the engine components, but to do this, you'll have to get the main harness out. It shouldn't matter about which year as long as the wiring & engine are from the same year. However, I'd probably recommend the 92-94 non-turbo Legacies though since there is less confusion on the ECU type.

I recently did some digging into this. Seatbelts are lifetime warrantied from 1995 and newer.

Was it the pressure plate? If the pressure plate is scored or has hot spots, it could be causing the vibration/shudder you're describing. It's usually good practice to replace the pressure plate with the clutch disc. It's also good measure to replace the pilot & throw out bearing as well.

It's the top ten best engines of 2010, not quantity

Welcome to the USMB. I'd recommend on staying with the stock airbox. Installing the pod filters can create potential issues with the MAF sensor over time and can lead to failure. I experienced this issue back in 2000 or so.

All the stock turbos have coolant in them for cooling, and the stock design allows for convection cooling currents to occur after the engine is shut off.

Did you find out why the turbo died? Has the oil been changed regularly? Do you drive the car hard?

No, unfortunately it does not record time & date stamp to my knowledge.