Legacy777

I believe the 1997 Legacy did not have a cable. So you should just have to replace the VSS and that's it.

Rob, I will move your post to the appropriate forum. As for the sticker....I think it's wrong or smudged. The US 1990 Legacy has a EJ22.

Fix your speedo issues. They are most likely the cause of the idle issues. The ECU does some weird stuff without a VSS input.

Welcome. I'm pretty sure the airbag light should go off if the airbag computer does a diagnostic and everything is ok. As for the various sensors. Without knowing the type of impact sensor, it'd be hard to say for sure whether you need to replace them. This page has some good info on the various type of sensors. http://www.aa1car.com/library/airbag01.htm You may want to call a local subaru dealership and see if they may be able to tell you the type of sensor and/or whether the sensors should be replaced.

The kit does not include the bearing. They will sell you the shaft with bearing already pressed onto it. I bought a replacement generic bearing from a bearing shop and did the install myself. It's not a normal thing.

It's either that or piston/rings. Either wouldn't really keep the car from starting. You sure you got the timing belt on correctly? People often misalign the mark on the crank.

You may want to also try the regional forum on nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

I have both SAE & Metric. The SAE doesn't get used much, but when I need an SAE tool, I need it.

Did you ever get the engine to start? Might be valve guides?

I don't know of anyone in San Antonio. You may want to try the texas region forums on nasioc to see if anyone may have any suggestions.

What modifications do you have? That will most likely be too large of a turbo for you to effectively use unless you have a decent amount of supporting modifications. Plus turbo lag will be much more pronounced compared to stock. BTW, do you have the 2.0 or 2.5 WRX? You may want to also check out http://www.forums.nasioc.com/forums for more info.

You're welcome. Vane pumps are interesting animals

My ex had some issues with her 06 Outback. It would randomly do something similar. I'd suggest posting over on http://www.legacygt.com/forums as there are more people over there with the newer legacy/outback.

I guess my one suggestion is get something big enough for future expansion. I've got two craftsman boxes (more or less one setup), and could use some extra room. It's not critcally needed at this time, but I could use it. http://main.experiencetherave.com/images/newplace/DCP_2260.JPG http://main.experiencetherave.com/images/newplace/DCP_2262.JPG I've since added a little hanging section on the right side for some extra drawer space for screwdrivers, and other misc stuff. I did end up buying a large storage cabinet, so that will help with keeping some of the larger tools. However it's not rollable. For what I do, it's not that big a deal though.

As mentioned the OEM rebuild kits are pretty good and come with all the gaskets. In addition to the gaskets, I also replaced the bearing. It was relatively easy, just press it off and press the new one on. You just need to keep track of all the parts. Only thing I forgot was the spring behind the regulator/bypass valve on the discharge. Here's some pics http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/psteeringpump/

Ok, I understand what you're trying to do. Thanks for the clarification.

When you depress the clutch, how far does the clutch slave cylinder pressing on the clutch fork move?

I guess the thing I'm not following is that there is no turbo engines on the Legacy/Outback cars in 2004. In 2005 the new generation Legacy was introduced, which did have the turbo motor. What year and model is the car you're wanting this idler for?

That's an interesting read on Ed's red.

I'm assuming you're talking for the timing belt? What years specifically are you wanting to know. They should be the same....

That's the point of a hydraulic clutch. You shouldn't need to adjust anything, they should be self-adjusting. The only exception I can see to this is if the ACT clutch/pp engagement points are not at the same spot that the stock subaru clutch/pp was.

Two things I would suspect. First, are you sure you got the correct clutch/pressure plate for your vehicle? Did you resurface or do anything with the flywheel? Second thing, would be that it didn't get installed correctly. The chances are pretty slim that the hydraulics are bad since they worked before you swapped in the new clutch. Are you sure you have the clutch fork installed correctly?

Only read a few paragraphs....and the thing I can conclude is that this reviewer must be part of the "masses" in which Subaru is trying to now appeal to.

We don't have too many snakes, however we do have frogs & lizards

You've got a problem some where else you need to fix. Adjusting the IAC solenoid or set stop screws is trying to fix a symptom, rather than the problem. I'd start with your basic tune up stuff and see if that helps.