Legacy777

This is probably your issue http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=1142

I would guess they are the same, or similar enough to be swapable. I'd try giving your local subaru dealership a call to see if they can lookup the two part #'s & compare.

Most switches would stop when the current increases, ie the motor is not moving, but still trying to move. You may want to try and find a used switch at a junkyard and swap it.

That's good to know the sti & turbo leg up-pipe is identical. I am trying to get my hands on an sti up-pipe to make the comparison. But it sounds like they're the same. I'd still prefer an sti one, simply because it's newer then the used turbo leg's running around.

I actually have just looked for one for my legacy, as the stock one had a crack. I tried the APS unit, and had issues with fitment. During my search, I heard that the perrin is pretty good unit, and not too expensive. I have also been looking at stock STi up-pipes as they don't have a cat in them.

Yeah it should be illuminated to my knowledge. I know the older legacies were. You probably need to take off the surrounding plastic piece to get at the bulb.....

I just replaced the rear door window glass on my legacy after it got busted. The whole process isn't too hard. You do need to move the window down a little to get at the one bolt. Make sure you don't lose the bolt. One of mine ended up getting stuck behind the motor assembly and the door. Getting the new glass in wasn't too bad once I got the slides in the door. I had to adjust the window a little bit, but it wasn't bad.

Got another window in, thanks to blackbart. I haven't gotten it tinted yet. hopefully soon. I've got other things on my plate too....so it may not happen right away.

Things just weren't in my favor yesterday I guess. I decided to drive the Legacy to work today, first time I've driven it to this job....ever...and today's my last day. I parked in the back of the parking garage to avoid door dings, and I came out after lunch to find my rear driver's door window had been broken. Nothing in the car appeared to be taken or moved. The alarm went off, which I believe scared whoever away. There's some questionable apt's behind where I work (near westheimer & gessner)....and people cut through the garage.... The nice thing is the tint held the glass together, which should make things easier to clean up. Here's some pics: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/rearwindow/ People just really disgust me at times. I've put a lot of time into this car and it does have sentimental value.....it just makes me sick. You can't have anything nice any more. People just don't give a flying @#$ about anyone. Sorry to rant... Josh

You could try putting in a resistor. I don't know if the ECU would be happy with that.....may be worth a try.

One of the window stops is probably out of whack/loose/broken. I haven't really dug into the power windows that much...so I can't say for sure how it's put together.

Yes the TPS/idle switch could be causing you issues with the shifting. Check the TPS/idle switch http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg

Something may be fishy, because when the manual button is depressed and the gear selector in the 3 or 2 position the transmission will start in 2nd gear rather then 1st gear. It was designed as a primitive traction control system.

I've changed the oil twice now on my GF's Outback with the EZ30. I did not put any oil in the filter since it's horizontal. To be quite honest, I was surprised at how fast the oil light went out.....it went out just as quick as it normally does. Compare that to the other 4 cyl. subie motors I've changed oil on, even went putting oil in the filter....the oil pressure light on the EZ30 went out faster.....that could be due to the placement of the sensor....but I haven't had any issues/noises.

The cold shifting is somewhat normal. What are the temps like in Denver?

nice little daily driver. I've got a 97 OBS for my daily driver and have been pretty happy with it.

www.subarugenuineparts.com

You know.....I really have no interest in auto crossing.....but I sure the hell would go rally crossing......I'd have a blast, even if I came in last

What year & model vehicle do you want to do this to? I'm assuming it's a subaru. Here's my write-up for my swaps www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap Josh

A looks more familiar, but I'd want someone else to confirm or deny that.

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You could try tightening the side retainer. However chances are you may have damaged the bearing with it being able to move around. I'd start with tightening the side retainer cap, and making sure the clip holding the cap is in place so it doesn't back out. I'm pretty sure the roller bearings are pressed onto the differential setup. So changing them probably wouldn't be easy.

I would recommend not messing with the knock sensor. I've tried a few things a while back, and none really improved things.

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