Legacy777

Yes the newer subarus, legacies & Outbacks for sure do use CAN.

If they won't come out, you may have to take the changer out and get them out by taking the unit apart.

The sending unit itself is different as well. The FWD unit has a resistance of around 0-95 ohms, while the AWD units have a resistance of around 0-45 ohms each, which gives a combined resistance of around 0-95 ohms.

As Subaru said in their response, using lower octane fuels may cause poorer performance & mileage, and may cause knock under certain circumstances. Most fuels will meet and exceed their AKI rating, so if you're buying an 87 octane fuel, the chances are, it may be a few points above. The way the ECU's work, they will constantly monitor the engine knock sensors, and will push timing up until the point of knock. The chances are that if you drove around on premium for a while, and then had the car dyno'd the timing trims would probably be slightly higher. Also, in regards to resetting the ECU. The fuel & timing trims should be able to be erased by resetting the ECU, or pulling the battery.

I believe there is also a sub fan relay. It's weird, some legacies have it wired up where both fans come on when the ECU tells it to, and others, only the man fan comes on when the ECU tells it to. However in that case, the sub fan comes on when the AC kicks in. The coolant temp sensor is very weird....it can be bad, and not work right, and not get a code. I think when they fail their resistance stays within the "normal" range, and the ECU doesn't have the advance programming the OBD2 ECU's have where it times the coolant temp sensor, and if it doesn't change/warm up in a certain amount of time, it'll give a code.

FWD & AWD sending unit assemblies are different, and can not be interchanged.

I'm sure it puts the nav into lockout when the car receives a speed signal. Removing the signal won't work since the nav needs it. Short of a programming change, I don't think you'll be able to get around it.

Which does it change with....engine speed or vehicle speed? If vehicle speed, I'd probably lean towards wheel bearing. I'd suggest jacking the car up and try wiggling the wheel and other components to see if they feel loose.

Yeah, it'd probably be best to start with the plugs as they are a relatively inexpensive fix.

I'd recommend going to the dealer and have them see if there are any codes stored in the airbag computer.

Does the whine change pitch with engine speed or vehicle speed?

The valve body type should be similar, and as long as it was rebuilt correctly, that shouldn't be an issue. It's possible the TCU may be acting up. If you get the part # off of it, I can check it to see what application it's for. You could try posting on the legacycentral bbs to see if other SS 4EAT owners exhibit similar issues.

This may help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/coolingfanwiringdiag.jpg

16 blinks means absolutely nothing. It's just a standard sequence that lets you know there is a code in the transmission computer. I guess what you need to find out is if the tranny guy actually got a code 15 or if he miscounted. On the older transmissions, code 15 indicated shift solenoid 1. However I couldn't tell you whether that code is still the same.....I sort of doubt it. If you can't get any answers...take it to a subaru dealership, and have them check the TCU for codes.

That I couldn't say. The cruise control module for the 91 is on the right side of the glove box....(for a left hand drive car) Do you currently have cruise now? Is something wrong with yours, is that why you want to swap it out?

Just swapping the turbo probably won't require you to do anything, however if you start upping the boost, which is usually what most people do when they put a bigger/better turbo on, then you will probably need to look at larger injectors. Are you just running stock boost levels? What boost levels do you plan to run with the TD05?

Yeah, the compressor is probably toast. I've had several go, and one seize up on me.

More then likely the difference in belts is that one is a 60,000 mile t-belt, while the other is a 100,000 mile t-belt. Either way, the belts should be 100% interchangable.

email me if you don't get any other responses.

Is this the only time it has happened, or is it happening again? Did you try turning the car off and on again?

You may want to try asking in the meet & greet forum or on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums in the NE regional forum.

If you don't get any responses here, you may want to try posting in the meet & greet forum or off topic.

If the sound is speed related, rather then engine related, then I would probably not suspect the oil pump or the related issues I mentioned above.

For the AT cars, the neutral switch is part of the inhibitor switch, and while I believe it can be removed from the outside of the transmission, it may not be fun. You can see it in this pic, it's where the cable goes to. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/09/DCP_3215.JPG

Take a look at my writeup. It should be similar, with the exception about maybe having to get a MT ECU. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap