Legacy777

You may want to check the connector and wiring, and or clean it with some electrical cleaner.

I'd recommend an aluminum one with plastic end caps. I don't know of a dual core one for the non-turbos. If you find one please let us know, as I'd be interested!

You may want to post in the meet & greet forum too.

There's another way with the connectors http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

You could have it checked out by the dealer, and maybe they will have an update....or may tell you to replace the TCU.

Do you have the wiring diagram for the brat's radiator fan setup?

Yeah, you should be able to replace it.

I'd suggest searching, but hopefully someone will also chime in.

It's probably replacable, however that is just a guess. My recommendation would be to call up a local subaru dealer, and they can look in their electronic parts catalog to see if it's available.

They were only wanting to know the speed of the drive shaft.....drive shaft is before the final gear reduction.

What year & model?

If it covers those years, it should cover your 96

bump

Wow....that's a pretty good price. I've been looking for the stock radiator for the AWIC setup for some time. All the ones I end up finding are dinged up. I'd love to find one in good shape so I can increase my cooling capacity. Josh

It's been a while since I did mine, but I don't recall it being too much of a pain to do. Are you sure the cable is inserted all the way, and the recessed portion on the cable is in the right spot?

People have run the higher wattage bulbs without problems, and some people have run the higher wattage bulbs and melted the connector, and/or had problems. The reflector is plastic I believe, but I think you should be ok in running the higher wattage bulbs if everything else is ok. But you're still taking a risk.

Bump for Larry

You should put the cable in first, and then put the clip in.

bump....anyone?

This will have all the info you need. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Legacy_awic_data.zip The pump is controlled by the ECU. The slower speed is acheived through a power resistor. I bought just the intercooler portion of the AWIC setup for around $100 I think. Finding the entire kits with all the stuff is kind of rare...but you may find some on the legacycentral bbs www.bbs.legacycentral.org

Yeah....you can give it a shot, and see what happens. The newer TB's were designed without it there. Just count the number of turns so you can get it back in the same area if it doesn't help, or makes things worse. Other thing to try....unplug the IAC valve electrical connector, and drive it around....see if that affects anything. You will have a pretty high idle, but the car should be driveable.

This pic should answer your question. That's looking under the dash on the driver's side. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

This issue with the 92 seats is they are meant for the auto seat belts, so the buckle height isn't exactly at the same point to match up.

I know it may be a dumb question, but when you're bleeding/burping the system, are you removing the bleed screw on the passenger side of the radiator?

Not sure if you have, but here's the scans from the FSM regarding the TPS. The last scan tells how to adjust the TPS....and is based upon the idle switch. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg Personally, I'd say with the symptoms you have, and the stored code....I'd replace the TPS. You can just replace the TPS, and not have to replace the throttle body, just adjust the TPS per the instructions in the last scan. Regarding the bypass screw.....that thing can cause you lots of hell. Unless you have a way to monitor the duty % on the IAC valve, I'd almost recommend just screwing it down all the way and let the IAC valve do what it's supposed to. I went through hell trying to fix a high idle that was caused by cleaning the TB and having that screw (unknown to me at the time) bypassing too much air.