Legacy777

It's possible you got some crappy gas. You could dump some octane booster in for that tank, and from here on out make sure to run premium gas. Other thing you could do is ask to drive another new one around for a test drive and see if you notice the same thing, or whether the issues are isolated to your car. Resetting the ECU may also be something you may want to do to clear any previous drive cylces with oddities.

Just to confirm, your liberty is MT correct? If so, it's probably a clutch issue or possibly some oil or what not has gotten on the flywheel/clutch and creating the problem you're describing.

The green connectors are for the D-check mode. You want to use the black connectors. You can read the instructions from my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Note the pictures on my site have the TCU mislabeled.

Yeah the car does some funky stuff without the VSS working properly. So yeah I'd recommend trying to fix the wiring as soon as you can. The two things on the driver's side of the MT are the neutral switch & reverse switch.

ok....this thread is done. There's no more useful information being presented.

If it's the second O2 sensor code, it won't do anything to affect drivability. That second O2 sensor is there to tell you whether the cat is working properly. So as you mentioned, the problem is either the O2 sensor or catalytic converter. If your cat was bad, you'd probably be experiencing other issues. Can you elaborate on your "a/c doesn't do anything"

Some people have just moved the a/c compressor off to the side where the battery sits, and not disconnected the lines. That may be an option. You've pretty much got all the stuff you need to disconnect. You'll need to take the starter out, and drop the exhaust manifold. The lift points, at least on the earlier legacies was through an eyelet at the alternator point, and spot at the back of the engine where it mounts to the tranny. You can replace the rear main without messing with the front of the engine. Make sure to not install the rear main too far, or it will definitely leak. You can take a look at some of my engine pics from my rebuild. They should give you a little better idea of where the lift points, etc http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/

pic of the ECU & TCU under the dash http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

From the pressures, it doesn't look like the compressor is even on. When you looked at the compressor, was the clutch engaged, and spinning?

What were the pressures you were seeing, and what was the ambient temperature when you took those readings?

Well....if you add some extra grounds, and find that the problem goes away, let us know.

Can you take a picture of it?

The only differences from the 4-wire & 3-wire O2 sensor is that the 4-wire sensor has a sensor ground as well as a heater ground, rather then grounding the sensor through the chassis. If you use a universal one, you need to make sure you solder the wiring good and seal it up so water doesn't get in.

If you're sitting there idle, does the compressor cycle on and off? Or does it only do it when you're driving?

If you're looking to sell it, I'd recommend trying to sell it to a subaru enthusiast. You may want to also check out the Legacy forums on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

The coil is a heat sink to help cool the resistors.

You may want to check out the Engine Management / Tuning forum on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums There's an E85 thread in there. I'm not sure what's all in it, but it's probably worth checking out.

It's a resonator box. A lot of people do remove it, which gives the car an agressive intake growl. The main issues with removing it is the air intake is a little lower, and could cause water ingestion if driving in high water. Also, all the piping can be tuned to help reduce a bogging feel when the accelerator is floored. However most people don't really notice it. If you've removed it, and you like the way the car feels, you'll be good.

Just curious....what level is your gas tank when this occurs? Does it mainly happen when you're at half a tank or less? Or does it also happen when the tank is full? I've heard of issues like yours with low fuel.

Crud.....I can't seem to find the diagram that shows which pin to ground to check the light. Anybody else have the info?

There's a way to test the light. What year and model car do you have?

It varies.....I've read manuals that the main fan is supposed to come on, and the sub fan to come on when the AC is used. However pretty much all the subarus I've seen have both fans coming on at the same time.

It should work just fine. You can see what I did with my swap, and it'll be very similar if not the same. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

How sturdy are the cross-bars? Do they feel pretty stout? If so, yeah I think it'd probably work. I'd probably use a wide base washer to spread the bolt's load out. The bars are more then likely hollow, so be careful when tighten the bolts.

The stock headlights do NOT have any sort of clear coat protection on them. You can use all the polishing crap you want. They will turn yellow again. The ONLY way to keep the yellow from coming back is to clear coat them. If you use the 2000 grit, you may have to polish the clear coat with a rubbing compound, or possibly recoat. That's why in my write up on the BBS, I get all the yellow off with acetone, continually use a finer and finer sand paper, and then the clear coat fills in the fine scratches....makes the lens clear again, and protects the plastic.