Legacy777

I'd recommend replacing the rear main seal and resealing the oil separator plate on the back of the engine. You'll need to remove the flywheel to get at these things, but it's a good idea to do that stuff while you're in there. I'd also suggest doing the pilot & throwout bearing as well.

I'm assuming you're talking about the SOHC 2.5's. I'm not sure. I suppose it's possible, but I don't know for sure. You'd probably be better off just getting a set of used 2.2 cams reground.

I know there's a way to test it. I gotta dig through my manuals some more to try and find that procedure to test it.

Nope.

It's possible you got some crappy gas. You could dump some octane booster in for that tank, and from here on out make sure to run premium gas. Other thing you could do is ask to drive another new one around for a test drive and see if you notice the same thing, or whether the issues are isolated to your car. Resetting the ECU may also be something you may want to do to clear any previous drive cylces with oddities.

Just to confirm, your liberty is MT correct? If so, it's probably a clutch issue or possibly some oil or what not has gotten on the flywheel/clutch and creating the problem you're describing.

The green connectors are for the D-check mode. You want to use the black connectors. You can read the instructions from my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Note the pictures on my site have the TCU mislabeled.

Yeah the car does some funky stuff without the VSS working properly. So yeah I'd recommend trying to fix the wiring as soon as you can. The two things on the driver's side of the MT are the neutral switch & reverse switch.

ok....this thread is done. There's no more useful information being presented.

If it's the second O2 sensor code, it won't do anything to affect drivability. That second O2 sensor is there to tell you whether the cat is working properly. So as you mentioned, the problem is either the O2 sensor or catalytic converter. If your cat was bad, you'd probably be experiencing other issues. Can you elaborate on your "a/c doesn't do anything"

Some people have just moved the a/c compressor off to the side where the battery sits, and not disconnected the lines. That may be an option. You've pretty much got all the stuff you need to disconnect. You'll need to take the starter out, and drop the exhaust manifold. The lift points, at least on the earlier legacies was through an eyelet at the alternator point, and spot at the back of the engine where it mounts to the tranny. You can replace the rear main without messing with the front of the engine. Make sure to not install the rear main too far, or it will definitely leak. You can take a look at some of my engine pics from my rebuild. They should give you a little better idea of where the lift points, etc http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/

pic of the ECU & TCU under the dash http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

From the pressures, it doesn't look like the compressor is even on. When you looked at the compressor, was the clutch engaged, and spinning?

What were the pressures you were seeing, and what was the ambient temperature when you took those readings?

Well....if you add some extra grounds, and find that the problem goes away, let us know.

Can you take a picture of it?

The only differences from the 4-wire & 3-wire O2 sensor is that the 4-wire sensor has a sensor ground as well as a heater ground, rather then grounding the sensor through the chassis. If you use a universal one, you need to make sure you solder the wiring good and seal it up so water doesn't get in.

If you're sitting there idle, does the compressor cycle on and off? Or does it only do it when you're driving?

If you're looking to sell it, I'd recommend trying to sell it to a subaru enthusiast. You may want to also check out the Legacy forums on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

The coil is a heat sink to help cool the resistors.

You may want to check out the Engine Management / Tuning forum on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums There's an E85 thread in there. I'm not sure what's all in it, but it's probably worth checking out.

It's a resonator box. A lot of people do remove it, which gives the car an agressive intake growl. The main issues with removing it is the air intake is a little lower, and could cause water ingestion if driving in high water. Also, all the piping can be tuned to help reduce a bogging feel when the accelerator is floored. However most people don't really notice it. If you've removed it, and you like the way the car feels, you'll be good.

Just curious....what level is your gas tank when this occurs? Does it mainly happen when you're at half a tank or less? Or does it also happen when the tank is full? I've heard of issues like yours with low fuel.

Crud.....I can't seem to find the diagram that shows which pin to ground to check the light. Anybody else have the info?

There's a way to test the light. What year and model car do you have?