Legacy777

The covers should either pop out, or there will be some screws or something to remove. Your best bet is to remove the fender liner so you can see behind the bumper. That'll tell you real quick what you need to do.

For your code retrieval process. It sounds right. The only thing that is a little odd is that the CEL did not blink a steady all clear when you connected the black diagnostic connectors only. Being that your ej22 is not turbo'd, that shouldn't change much....if anything it'll be easier.

You can do the head without pulling the motor, however it's a little more cramped. You're probably right about it being a valve type issue. The bottom ends tend to be pretty stout, but without removing the head, you really don't know. The CEL isn't going to be displayed because OBD1 ECU's are a little limited, and if the issues is mechanical, the ECU isn't going to really know that anything is wrong. Newer OBD2 ECU's that detect misfires on particular cylinders would probably have thrown a code. Just curious....how were you pulling the codes from the ECU? I've got instructions on my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Also, here's some pics from my engine rebuild, which may give you some idea of how things are put together and confidence of doing the work yourself. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/

Yeah, that exhaust valve is toast. These engines tend to build up carbon if they don't get run hard every now and then. It's also a good idea to run fuel system cleaner every now and then.

The oil separator goes on the back of the engine. Here's a pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/05/DCP_4421.JPG Here's a pic of the plastic separator http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/04/DCP_4381.JPG What it does is help reduce the oil vapor the crankcase blowby gasses. It sort of performs a similar duty as an oil catch can, by providing a baffled restriction for the gasses to go by/around.

No worries

Found the info I was looking for today when I was testing my own fuel sender issues. The test does work, I tested it on my car. The only issue I can see is that it sounds like the newer cars do not have a separate device to turn on the low fuel warning light like the older cars. Anyway, here's the scan http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Legacy_Low_fuel_warning_light_test.jpg

Nope....the neutral switch does not prevent the car from starting. The neutral switch tells the ECU when the car is in neutral so the ECU adjusts timing and what not so idle remains steady. It doesn't really do much on a MT, but on an AT, it does. The clutch interlock system prevents the car from starting without depressing the clutch.

There's been some recent posts about this. Next time floor the accelerator, and it should downshift.

I personally wouldn't pay more the 200 bucks. I believe that's what I paid for mine.

That'd probably be a good idea. How do you currently have the oil pickup configured? Is it stock? Are you using the stock subaru oil pan? There is a new oil pan design that has a secondary set of baffles. You can see the difference in these pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/06

There's a guy that does amazing dent removal down here. I had him do my car a few months ago....then about 3 weeks ago so asshat at the airport put a huge ding and gouge on my rear driver's side door. I had the ding removed, but the paint is still buggered. Freakin people need to be slapped around!!

How does the transfer case sit on the trans? Are there any additional supports/subframe bracing that might interfere? I haven't seen any of the legacy/liberty transmissions that are dual range, so I'm not sure how they're setup.

Hmm....not sure about the US designation. Yeah the 20 pdf an hour thing sucks. You may want to ask the guys on www.legacygt.com/forums as they may be more familar with the manuals.

One of the members on the legacycentral board had his cams reworked for a reasonable price. I'd suggest searching the board, and you should be able to find his post. www.bbs.legacycentral.org

What sort of pressures are you seeing out of that engine?

There's been some weird happenings with some of the 05 Legacies. You may want to check out www.legacygt.com/forums to see if anyone else has had similar issues. A friend of mine had subaru buy her LGT back because it would randomly turn off while driving down the road.

The marks should be similar to the first gen 2.2's. here's pics from my t-belt job http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/

The white wheels look good Here's the latest pics I have of mine. Waxed it a 2 weekends ago. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/zymol2/ sorry for the thread hi-jack......

You can also build one of these http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/16 In action http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/18

John, It's normal for the fans to come on and you to hear clicking if you connect the green connectors. However, the code retrieval procedure is different between the first gen legacies and the XT's. See my post above for recommendations on what to do.

Replace the knock sensor first. The plastic gets old, cracks, and the sensor shorts out. The O2 sensor may or may not be bad, but if you have not replaced it and your car has higher mileage, it'd be a good idea to replace it. The idle switch is built into the TPS sensor, and you can adjust the TPS to properly set the idle switch, if it needs to be adjusted. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg What I recommend you do is clear the ECU, drive the car around, and see what codes come back.

After 1990 I believe, the ECU's did not get the little green O2 monitor LED light. All the first gen legacies need to have the black connectors connected to read stored codes in the memory. The green connectors provide a more "active" diagnostic check.

Yes connect the two black connectors together. If you've had the battery disconnected from the ECU for an extended period of time (hour or so) more then likely any stored codes have been erased. You don't need to start the engine to pull the codes, if any are there. Just put the key in the ON position with the black diagnostic connectors connected.

What year and model are you d/l for? From what I have seen in some models....the main difference is how the wiring is laid out.