Legacy777

You only have to replace the combination meter assembly. The front plastic black trim piece needs to be removed. You will either need to drop the steering wheel column by loosening the two bolts holding it up, or take the steering wheel off to get the trim plastic off. Once that's removed you should be able to get access to the combination meter. As for the miles, yeah you're just going to have to keep track of it......I don't know if the plastic piece comes off the gauge assembly. If it does....try adjusting the numbers to where yours currently is.

No diagnostic connectors is nothing....it's just normal. Black connectors is u-check green connectors is d-check both black & green connectors clears the trouble codes. D-check basically provides a more thorough diagnostic.

To be quite honest, I didn't think Subaru came with Onstar either. There was an alliance with subaru & GM a few years back, so I guess it's possible. I would question whether it's actually a factory installed option though. Do you have a brochure or can point to a website that says it was an option? You may want to contact subaru of america directly. You can find a contact number on www.subaru.com

The brake band adjustment only controls certain shifts. What shift do you notice the raise in RPM's? Is it all gears or one in particular? Adjusting the brake band can be a pain. Here's the procedure for the first gen legacies. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/transbrakebandadj.jpg

Have you checked www.kbb.com ?

Yeah, pull the wheel off and take a look at it.

I don't know the rotation direction off the top of my head. The front differential is integrated into the transmission casing. I'm not sure mounting it upside down will work, due to the shape of the case. You probably would not get adequate lubrication. Here's some pics of the rear diff off my turbo legacy (which is similar to the WRX) The LSD is a sealed viscous type and should be able to operate in any direction. Other thing to note. The WRX has a final drive ratio of 3.90. However the center diff's ratio is 3.545 because there is a 1.1:1 gear ratio from the rear transfer gear.

You'll find all the info on the codes and how to check them on my site. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html BTW, your problem is possibly the gear inside the transmission. If you disconnect the cable from the trans. Put the end in a drill, spin it, and see if the speedo works. (key needs to be in the ON position) If the speedo works, then the issue is inside the transmission. If it doesn't work, then it's the speed sensor in the dash, and you should replace the whole combination meter with a different one. And yes the speedo not working is probably the cause of your CEL.

How old is the current temp sensor? If it's old....I'd recommend replacing it. They can cause issues, and still test fine, and look to be ok.

Pull fuse 14 (EGI/TCU) from the driver's side kick panel fuse box. Remove it for about 30min.

It probably will, but you'd probably want to swap over the resevoir from your old one.

no prob. I'll just close this one, so replies go in the other thread.

I've helped some people with problems trying to clear engine codes. The canister purge solenoid can cause issues and prevent all the codes from clearing. I'd suggest putting in another canister purge solenoid if you have problems clearing the ECU.

yup, the sedan and wagon's are interchangable.

FYI here's the site that calab is talking about. http://techinfo.subaru.com

If you want to hardwire the radar detector, your best bet is to use a test light or a multimeter and figure out where an ignition power wire and ground are. Tap into them, and hook up the radar detector to it. You'll probably have to take some of the plastic pieces off the dash to get at things.

I don't know if the ABS works if your speed is below a certain point. Your best bet is to put the gear selector in 1st gear and let the engine braking along with very light brake pedal input get you down the hill.

The inner plastic pieces are more then likely held on with plastic clips. If you feel around the edges you'll probably start to feel them. You can use a screw driver or something else to gently pry the plastic clips out.

Yeah, removing those two things makes changing the plugs MUCH MUCH easier.

What year is your legacy? Use this and let us know how your readings compare to what the normal is http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/select_monitor_dsht.doc

http://techinfo.subaru.com

Yes, most definitely check the ECU for codes.

I'd prefer to keep them together. Make me an offer for the four of them. Yes I take paypal, and can send it anyway you'd like. Shoot me a pm or email, and we can try and figure things out.

It says there should be an LED. It says if the LED doesn't display then there might be an issue with the power supply may be inoperative. Is the ABS warning light on?

Going to move this over to the old gen since it's more of an "older gen" car.