Legacy777

Yes to both your questions. Yeah, make sure the pins are there on the connector.

I'd sooner get a new legacy

Yeah, 02 stuff should work. Check out this link for junkyards http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=362676#post362676

Seafoam makes a specific ATF product called trans tune. It should not be used in the differential.

No, the 94 does not have an EGR valve. I'd spray some brake cleaner in the IAC valve tube. Also, run some seafoam through the engine.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=362670#post362670

Might be one of the limit switches. I have diagnostic procedures to check the computer, but my server is down now. Shoot me an email, and I can email you the scans.

You may want to check https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html It may be cheaper. As for junkyards http://www.4subarusuzukikiaparts.com/ http://www.superrupair.com/ http://www.aaronsautowrecking.com/

I think some people have used the additive, however I don't know how "successfull" it has been. But yeah I think it's a cheap fix...

Yes, he did state he had an auto. I'd say the AWD is sort of working, however it may not be working optimally.

Just so you know. The MT IAC is different then the AT IAC valve. The MT is 2-wire, while the AT is 3-wire. They are not interchangable. So make sure you get the correct one.

check out my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html You need to connect the black diagnostic connectors to check the codes.

There's gotta be some good shops in portland. Hopefully someone will chime in. What I'd do is have the coolant sniffed for hydrocarbons just to verify it is a headgasket.

I went from auto to manual, and since the MT doesn't use a trans computer, I just got rid of the TCU. For your situation, you would just have to verify the extra wiring is there for the AWD solenoids, etc. If the wiring is there, you'd just have to find an AWD TCU. If the wiring is not there, that will definitely make things a little more difficult, but not impossible. You'd just have to run the extra wires to the TCU.

Check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org there's some info on there regarding this topic.

Actually, that's a good question. I don't think it will, but I've still got my AT starter from before my AT to MT swap, and I have the MT starter out. So I should be able to test things for you.

Also, Put the gear selector in the 2 or 1 position and see if you notice any difference. The torque transfer is supposed to be 50/50 when the gear selector is in 1 and possibly 2.

What is the indication that the AWD isn't working? Only that the front wheels are spinning first? What surface is he doing this test on?

The coolant temp sensors will not be in the intake manifold. They'll be in the coolant crossover header beneith the intake manifold.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/Technicians_Reference_Booklets/ I've zipped the PDF's because Adobe opens them within the browser and causes quite a bit of server load and continual bandwidth usage. Putting them in a zip file forces a d/l of the file. Irregardless.....my server is down right now....I should be able to reboot it when I get home this evening.

Yes, but your hypoid gears in the differential also use the same gear oil and need a larger amount of EP (extreme pressure) additives. That is what the GL5 rating means. More EP additives compared to GL4. People have run GL4 only in their subaru transmissions. I don't think you're going to see an immediate issue, but who's to say down the road several years you have issues with your differential.

What is it connected to?

Unfortunately my car isn't an AT any more or I'd double check. Someone with a first gen legacy with the filter should be able to confirm. If you don't get any response, ask your question on www.bbs.legacycentral.org You'll get an answer over there.

Should be located in the same place as the first gen legacies http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2470.JPG

I'm a little confused. Which ECU are you using, the Hitachi (MT) or JECS (AT)? If you swapped the AT ECU in, you really didn't need to do squat except swap MAF sensors. When I say jumper, it's just a wire going from a certain pin on the ECU connector to ground. I'm still unsure of which ECU you are using, so I don't want to recommend anything yet.