Legacy777

Not sure if you can take apart the pump, but if you can, you can try that. Maybe something got lodged in the impeller. If not, just pickup a used windshield washer tank & pump at a junkyard. You should be able to get one for cheap. then just swap tanks, or swap the motor.

Sounds like a short or possibly a faulty intermittant connection. You may want to ask this question on www.subaru-svx.net They might be familiar with this problem.

I'm assuming you've tried resetting the ECU right?

Does it do it in neutral and park? Wonder if you have an exhaust leak.

What sort of warranty is on the rebuilt trans? If they say it's nothing, and don't want to look into it now. Tell them to give you a guarantee in writing that says any damage/failure that can be tracked down to their work will be covered by them.

just unscrew the power steering lid

You can find the info in the FSM on my site. It has resistance values for the ignitor http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/

Check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org The wrx dp does work, however it needs to be lengthened at the end. Axle back needs hanger modifications, and lengthening as well.

The 99 should have very similar if not the same drivetrain setup as the 95.

The site I posted is a subscription service. You have to pay money for a certain amount of time. In that time, you can d/l the information you want. If you go to the reference publications section, choose your year and model, you'll be able to see the different categories and sort through to find what you want.

www.subarugenuineparts.com Cheapest online subie dealer. They have a parts catalogue too you can browse through to find parts https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html

You could try d/l the info you need from http://techinfo.subaru.com or you may want to try http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

The pumps should really be replaced any where from 100-120k, depending on which timing belt interval you have. It's good preventitive maintenance

You really should not pulse ABS brakes. You should hold the pedal firmly and allow the system to pulse the brakes. It's possible there is a problem, or it's possible it's getting confused. You could try pulling the ABS codes http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/absdiag.jpg

What would you like a picture of? Was it directed towards me or another member?

Check the ECU codes. Instructions on how to pull the codes can be found on my site under notes & tips, engine related. Once you get the codes pulled, post back, and we can try and troubleshoot from there.

May want to try asking your question here http://www.b9xclub.com/

It's normal whatever it is. Mine does it.

This thread has a lot of good info in it, including the toyota solenoid contact part #'s http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2447&highlight=secret%2A+start%2A

There is a diagnostic connector under the dash. It is a six pin connector that is flat on the bottom. The bottom has 4 pins, and the top has two on either side. it looks like: 1 23456 Pin 1: Airbag diagnosis Pin 2: Airbag clear memory Pin 3: Air suspension Pin 4: Automatic shoulder belt Pin 5: Cruise control This connector is only for airbag equipped cars. Non airbag equipped cars only have a 4-pin connector. What you need to do is connect a diagnostic terminal to pin 1 to read the airbag codes. The diagnostic terminal is wrapped up in the wiring that the connector is on. I'm pretty sure the terminal just ground the circuit. So if you can't find the terminal, you could just try running a wiring from pin 1 to ground.

Without doing some more troubleshooting, it'd be hard to say. It's brand new, just take it back to the dealer.

The PCV valve and brake booster ports may be in different spots. Use whatever port is more central.

Don't touch that throttle stop screw. That's a big no-no. They are preset from the factory to flow a certain amount. I've heard of several people messing with that screw, and once they figured out the real problem, they had idle issues. By messing with that screw you are fixing the symptom and not the problem. As it was mentioned, there are two temp sensors, the dash one has no effect on the engine temp sensor. Also, as it's been mentioned, there may not be a code, and everything may work "ok", but the coolant temp sensor may be lazy or not work as efficiently as it should. Like I said, they're less then $20. Just replace it if it's at all suspect. It's a good preventitive maintenance item anyway.

Yes you'll still need to worry about the beam pattern. There is a little metal piece in the projector that serves as the cutoff. I have heard of people modifying that so it has the proper setup, but whether you want to do that, or just put them in is up to you. The 5w bulb is a city light or parking light bulb. The JDM lights have the turn signal in the headlight. that's what the amber bulb is for. The H3 is high beams.

No I don't know the torque value......tight is what I'd recommend. I'm not sure if there is a haynes or chiltons forester service manual. You can always d/l stuff from subaru http://techinfo.subaru.com Or you can buy the factory service books. They're a good investment.